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Routes in Yushan North Face

Yushan North Face Gully 2 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3-4 M3-4 R
Yushan North Face Gully 3 T AI2-3 M2-3 X
Yushan North Face Gully 4 (aka Sword Gully) T AI2
Yushan True North Face Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 149 total · 2/month
Shared By: Anmin Deng on Jan 6, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

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Limited by Yushan National Park regulations Details


The 50-60 degrees of snow slope a couple of dozen meters on the left side of central ridge on the north face.
If very thick packed snow, it is an easy 50-60 degrees of snow walk;
In regular to not so good seasons, some small nearly vertical mixed sections, up to 3 meters high, rock exposed as mixed climbing crux. The crux rock formation, at about 2/3 of the route, in not so good seasons is called "cockroach egg" (because the shape of the rock formation looked like a cockroach egg).

. "Gully #3 Direct", direct climb on the vertical wall at bottom section of this route. People tend to bypass this vertical wall and flash its right side snow slope when climbing gully #3 in not so good seasons when it is a rock wall. The wall becomes ice wall only in *VERY GOOD* seasons.

. "Mandarin duck". Gully #3 is not exact on the central ridge on the north face. "Mandarin duck" as a variation to climb exactly on the central ridge (AI3-4, M3-4). Parties try to bypass the Gully #3 direct wall from the right in the bottom section could go to "Mandarin duck" which is harder than Gully #3. If you look up and find walls after walls instead of only one small wall above a steep snow slope, or if you look right behind the ridge you can see the north ridge at far right, you could be wrong. Traverse left to find the real Gully #3 is advised if your intention is to climb Gully #3.

. Without climbing the crux "cockroach" but go to the left to the route "Sword in Snows", a much easier variation.


. The 50-60 degrees of snow slope a couple of dozen meters left off the central ridge on the north face.
. Start the climb as the same as the gully #4.
. Finished the route to the summit and down climbing the traditional (tourist) route.


. virtually no useful protection at top sections of the route. It is very easy to pull out pitons by hands.
. not so good very thin bushes as natural pros at bottom sections
. good pitons at first pitches.
. no bolt or anchor