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Routes in Yushan North Face

Yushan North Face Gully 2 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3-4 M3-4 R
Yushan North Face Gully 3 T AI2-3 M2-3 X
Yushan North Face Gully 4 (aka Sword Gully) T AI2
Yushan True North Face Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 639 total · 7/month
Shared By: Anmin Deng on Jan 5, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

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Limited by Yushan National Park regulations Details

Description

Gully #2 is just on the right (west) side of the central ridge on the north face of Yushan main summit (the most obvious feature on the north face).

After climbing up a couples of steep snow or mixed pitches (about 60-70 degrees, maybe a couple of steeper steps among pitches) just along the right side of central ridge wall base, the crux is about 10 meter high 70-80 degrees ice or mixed wall and a vertical dihedral in its top half (where the left side of the dihedral is an overhanging wall). In good seasons the crux is packed with ice but it can be mixed terrain in not so good seasons.

At the top of the crux pitch the rock quality is very poor and very hard to protect. Pitons can be easily pulled out by hand here. You may want to directly tie your webbing onto the features of chicken head rocks and cross your fingers. weighing on pro or belay, let along leader or follower falling, is strongly recommended against.

Here turn to left and traverse for about 5 meters, behind the ridge and you will see an easier snow gully (about 60-70 degrees) directly goes to the west shoulder of the summit. In good seasons, running belay or even simul solo the final pitches to the summit is OK.

[Variations]
. Just finished the crux above the dihedral, not turn to left but turn to right, and go to the upper part of the route "Gully #1"

. This variation is also called "Ice Fall in Silver". Just before entering the crux, there would be a 10 meter high vertical ice fall on the left side of the crux only if in *VERY GOOD* seasons. In typical alpine climbing seasons, the ice fall would have formed only the top section such that it would be extremely hard to climb this ice fall if possible.

. Reports also found on Gully #2 by rock climbing in summers.

Location

. Find the central ridge on the north face and climb along its right (west) base.
. Finished the route and get down via traditional (tourist) route.

Protection

. poor protections on snow sections (1st few pitches and the final pitch);
. ice pitons, pitons, middle sized cam on rock and mixed sections, rock quality is fair below the crux but very poor just above the crux (this is why the crux is here due to the geological forces);
. ice screws on ice sections in good seasons;
. no bolt or anchor

Photos

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