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Routes in Yushan South Ridge and South Face

Yushan South Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI2-3 M4+ X
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3000 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 343 total, 4/month
Shared By: Anmin Deng on Jan 5, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

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Limited by Yushan National Park regulations Details

Description

In few very good winters (Nov-Apr, seeing better chances in Feb-Mar) when the south ridge is packed with heavy snow, it is the greatest alpine scene on Taiwan. The best choice to ease yourselves from the tense of consecutive days of intensive climbs.

This route is about 1km long along the south ridge of Yushan main summit starting from Yuanfeng (Round summit). Starting as easy snow simul solo walk, and the ridge becoming steeper and narrower and sharper, and becoming nearly a vertical wall near the summit at final 1 or 2 pitches. The wall is typically M4+. Climbing parties may choose to bypass this wall as a variant from its left (west side) and go up a steep (60-70 degrees, AI2~3) snow slope until the tip of the ridge. 100 more meters of easy snow walking reaches the summit.

It is strongly recommended the climb finished by 10:00 AM if in sunny days, or the snow can be too soft after exposed to the sun.

In summers, this is class 4+ with very loose rocks.

It is very good for basic snow training along both sides of easier sections on the ridge, where some wind-blocking large easy snow slopes available. (good for camping too)

Location

. from Yuanfeng shelter about 500 meters walk north to the Yuanfeng (Round summit) on the south ridge, or,
. from Paiyun hut, along the trail to Yuanfeng shelter, when the trail meets the south ridge, turn left to walk north on the south ridge.

. finished the route to reach the summit and get down via traditional (tourist) trail (not that easy in alpine seasons).

Protection

. very poor protections on snow sections, unless after days of very long and strong cold waves.
. Poor rock quality for pitons or nuts or cams in some sections. You can sometimes easily pull out a piton by hand. To directly tie webbings onto chicken head features is advised.
. no bolt or anchor.
. new installed steel chains along the easier snow slope variant route.
. virtually no good protection. falling is strongly recommended against at the final vertical pitches or the steep snow pitches.

Photos

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