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That Roof Crack

5.8, Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
Pennsylvania > S Central PA > Chickies Rock > Cave

Description

P1: Climb the obvious roof crack that traverses the wall just to the right of the cave. Climb to the end of the roof and pull over the roof following the crack straight up to a small tree below a ledge, belay from the ledge. 60ft.

P2: Climb up and angle left across the grassy gully. Past the gully reach an arete and follow that up right towards the large pine tree. Cross under the left side of the pine tree and up another face to the summit, belay from the a rock pinnacle at the summit. 150ft.

Location

15' right of the cave start at the two large trees. Climb the face up into the crack.

Protection

Nuts, Camalots .75-4

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
  5.5
[Hide Comment] You boys aren't old enough to claim the first ascent on that. It has been climbed before you were even born. Jan 27, 2011
Kevin O'Connor
Richmond, VA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Do you have any other history on the route than that? Feb 5, 2011
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Well at the very least I climbed it three years ago and I know of others who have climbed it back in the 80s. There are several routes that tackle the roof head on in a more direct style as well; the ones that come to mind are Hugh's roof, Milt's roof, Waiting for a train, and Hard Times. Feb 18, 2011
A bit
PA
 
[Hide Comment] Did the first pitch, was not able to determine beginning/route-finding the 2nd pitch. Quite grassy indeed. Fun first pitch though. Mar 16, 2021
Milt Strickler
Louisville CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I don't know the early history of these overhang routes, but they were routinely done when I learned to climb at Chickies in 1974. A few years later I led routes starting in the cave overhangs, but they rapidly deteriorated into easy climbing on dirty rock. Apr 16, 2023