Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,830 total · 50/month
Shared By: rhyang on Jan 4, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Head up a crack, pass a tree into a left-facing corner beneath a big roof. Place a couple of pieces in the lip, then reach up to the hidden hold and stem over the roof. Jamming skills useful here. The roof looks hard but is actually not so bad if you get the sequence right. Bolt anchor at the top with rings.

Location

Take the Moses Spring trail from the parking lot, and turn right at the Tourist Trap sign; scramble down and then back up. Last year a lot of work was done in this area and there are new stone steps. There is a tree near the base which makes a good belay anchor.

Descend by rappel.

Protection

The books say pro to 4-5", but #2 / 0.75 camalots fit in the lip just fine. Perhaps some mid-sized nuts if you really want to sew it up. Long sling for the tree.

Photos

aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Great climb! I didn't believe this roof would go at 5.7 until I committed to the moves. That jug above the roof is key. With some perfect jams and smearing on the right, just go for it. #2 BD in the roof protects perfectly. Rock is solid here. Jan 9, 2011
brown145
  5.9
brown145  
  5.9
Roof is easier that it looks (from the ground or immediately below it); but I don't think its 5.7 easy. Anchor on top is well placed for rappel but will pendulum swing anyone trying to follow on TR if they fail on the roof. Aug 31, 2015
Adam Merry
Monterey
  5.7
Adam Merry   Monterey
  5.7
Great route for warming up or practicing jamming/smearing. The jug in the crack underneath the roof makes pulling over the roof MUCH easier. The jug is quite a way into the crack though so keep reaching.

After you pull the roof it helps to place a friend with a sling into the crack as a directional for your follower. Jan 22, 2016
There is an easy-to-overlook bolt about 8 feet back from the lip and about 6 feet climber's right of the anchor that can offer some redirect for a follower or top-roper coming up through the crux. May 8, 2017