PRINT: Rock Climb Thriller on the Pillar, Squamish

Thriller on the Pillar

5.10b, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 30 votes
FA: J. Frimer, D. McCombs
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Olesen Creek Wall

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Up cracks on the face of the pillar, making several crack switches to the left. Many 5.9 moves on solid gear... with two or three more technical moves near the top. A full pitch of heads-up, fun climbing.

Location

located on the face of Ali Pillar... can't miss it as you come up the trail. Rap chain equipped.

Protection

doubles to #3

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thriller on the Pillar goes up the cracks on the face of the pillar

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Hoffmann
Squamish

5.10b

Fun route with interesting sequences that keep you thinking. Bring a lot of pro. It is possible to rap with a 60 but, tie knots in the end and rap to the right. Oct 11, 2012

slim

5.10b

great pitch with a lot of thoughtful climbing. feels like a long pitch. probably want to budget your gear carefully to make sure you have what you need when you want it. only knocks against this route - a little dirty, but will clean up nicely with traffic. also, the bolt was in a really weird location. it doesn't really protect anything, as you are basically done climbing by the time you can actually clip it. Aug 5, 2013

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

5.10b

A very engaging pitch. Lots of moves to keep you thinking. It was a bit dirty, but the dirt just added to the thrill. Once you pull over the first bulge, the rest of the gear is #1 camalot or smaller, thus don't worry about using all your larger pieces in the initial hand crack. Gear is excellent, and always right where you need it. I was glad to have two #0.5 (purple) camalots at the top before the bolt. They fit perfectly through the finishing moves of the crux! A better start to WireTap in my opinion. Aug 8, 2013

slim

5.10b

man, it took me several tries figuring out which way to go up there! i up and downed, placing and removing, traversing to and fro. i definitely found it mentally engaging and somewhat puzling. Aug 9, 2013

Will M.
Oakland

5.10b/c

This was an awesome and very memorable single pitch that I wasn't expecting to be so cool. I normally climb with doubles or triples in purple but opted not to on this route. BIG MISTAKE. Make sure you have a purple camalot or grey alien or something finger sized that's smaller than a green to protect the move to the bolt. Agreed that the bolt placement is weird. Aug 21, 2016

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

5.10b

Did it again to start Wiretap... killer pitch for sure. Once again, above the first mini-roof it's all #1 camalot or smaller - so don't hesitate to dump your larger pieces in the chimney crack below. The cracks above will take as many #0.4-#0.75s as you can throw at it. Aug 26, 2016

DaveTO
Squamish, B.C.

5.10b/c

A great route. Agree with all the comments here, including the critique of the bolt placement. Should be a few feet lower for sure. I say still do the normal start for Wiretap, and then do Thriller afterwards. You can rap Thriller and clean your own gear if your partner is not into it (rap climbers right of the tree halfway down to keep you roughly in line). Crux was definitely the last move through the bolt. Warning: the forest is reclaiming this route fast. It felt considerably harder in summer 2022 than a few years ago as a result... just can't trust the face moves as much when they're covered in growth. Aug 7, 2022

Brock Michael
Squamish, BC

5.10b

This thing kicked my ass. I love it. Did not send.

I recommend triples in finger sized pieces if you're a 5.10 leader, it feels like a long pitch. I ran out of gear and split it into two pitches unfortunately.

The forest is definitely reclaiming this one.

Agree with the critique of the bolt placement. If you want to do some gardening you can get some pro pretty high in the crack off to the right of it. Oct 9, 2022

Alexandros Kazantzidis
College Station, TX

As of July 2024, it looks like a sea of green up there. Jul 12, 2024

Eric Bowes
Los Alamos, NM

Climbed this on 08/01/2024 and it was really gross- full of algae/dirt/moss. Everything was slippery and sort of wet. This would be a three star pitch if it got more traffic but can't recommend as is. We did it because there were hornets at the standard Wiretap start. Aug 5, 2024