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> 3. Ice Palace
Arjumand's Shroud
WI5 M6
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Shawn Tracy and Garth Willis (P1), James Loveridge Roger Strong (first free P2) |
Page Views: | 1,510 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Shawn P. Tracy on Jan 2, 2011 |
Admins: | Dave Rone |
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Description
The First Ascent tackled P1 by avoiding the unprotectable, 1/2-inch ice sheet (30 ft) by following it's left edge, mixed climbing marginally-protectable rock to a point where a nest of pins were placed behind a flake system. From here, roughly the top of the ice sheet, a traverse was made to the base of a thin, detached pillar (2 stubbies at base) and up this to the cave (two bolt belay with rope-threadable rappel hangers). The second pitch was tackled the second day by ascending the free-hanging column leading to Grade 2 steps to the base of the headwall. As I (Shawn) was pulling over the top-out moves my tools ripped sending me for a regrettable, unforgettable ride. I lowered to the Grade 2 steps and re-climbed to the last screw, tested it, didnt like it, placed a second one, then topped out. Roger Strong and James Loveridge got the second ascent of P1 by climbing the initial ice sheet and the first free ascent of P2, sans ripper, a couple weeks later.
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