Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Harrison, Brooks, Stuberg 81
Page Views: 812 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Dec 29, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is almost a great route. There is some really fun climbing on surprisingly good rock and really good gear at the cruxes. This section of cliff is more often than not overlooked for pretty obvious reasons (i.e. it looks like crap). With some more traffic, the lichen could clean up nicely. The only other drawback is the loose rock on the top ledge. If you were not careful, you could kill someone on the trail.

Where the trail hits the rock, there is a shallow dihedral that leads to a left-facing flake/crack. A #4 is useful here. Cruise up that crack and head towards a tree right above you. Before this tree, look for a hand ledge that leads right into the obvious, left-facing dihedral (#4 here also, or sling a chockstone). Head up nice jugs to a little ledge under the crux dihedral that is capped by a tiny tree/bush. Nice sharp finger locks and stemming get you through here with a good nut or TCU for pro. 20 more easy feet put you on the rotten ledge where the 2nd pitch of Rhombohedral begins.

Location

Left of Rhombohedral where the trail meets the rock. From the top, it is an easy scramble (down and right) over to the rappel tree. New cord, as of today, and a single 70 gets you down.

Protection

SR, 2 #4s and 2 #3s could be helpful but not mandatory....

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8 PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8 PG13
This is a fun pitch. Better than pitch one of the Rhombohedral. If this was combined with the last pitches of the Rhombohedral, it would approach a three star climb. Dec 29, 2010
The 20 ft. fingercrack crux is the only decent section of this 120 ft pitch, the rest is a teetering stack of rotten blocks, especially the initial pillar/flake which will soon be scattered about the trail. Feb 8, 2013
Benjamn P
Boulder, CO
 
Benjamn P   Boulder, CO
 
I barely touched and pulled off a 4', human-sized flake before the finger crack ledge yesterday. Probably has been a lot of rain and weathering that has removed the mud holding in this rotten block since S. Kimball's comment above. There still is another future sketchy flake being jammed with mud below the one I pulled, but it doesn't currently move. It will probably come lose in the next couple of years with wet weather and freeze/thaw! The route is cleaner but not completely solid stone yet! Jun 2, 2017