Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Ted Chapin and Jim Boone, October 1979
Page Views: 583 total · 6/month
Shared By: Will S on Dec 28, 2010
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

14 Opinions

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This route takes the fat flake just left of Be Wary. Starts up Be Wary, transfers out to the flake at about 10' off the deck. Fun transition moves, and std ow/squeeze (or lieback) to the top of the flake where it eases.


Middle of the south face, on the left wall of a dihedral system is an obvious fat flake. Descend by either walking off the back on obvious low angle terrain, or downclimbing Brimstone Stairway.


If leading (most will solo or TR), take the largest piece you own #4 camalot or bigger and maybe a couple pieces from fingers to hands. Build your own anchor with either gear or slinging large boulders.


shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
Call me silly but this felt a little stout for 5.7. Apr 16, 2011
Vista, CA
tro4130   Vista, CA
Tricky at the top of the flake but look for a foothold on the opposing wall and you are solid...too bad the flake doesn't feel so solid. Done it once, don't trust it enough for round 2. Jan 9, 2012
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I agree that this seems stout for 5.7. A fun climb though with neat moves. Feb 21, 2012