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Routes in Morbid Mound

'Til Death Do Us Fart T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
3rd Class It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Last Cigarette Senor? T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ambulance Driver T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Be Wary T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Be Wary of Your Physician's Assistant TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bouncer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brimstone Stairway T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a R
DOA T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Deadheads T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Disappearing Belayer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flies on the Wound T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fly in the Ointment TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hillside Strangler T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Morituri Te Salutamus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Myrmecocystus Ewarti T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Ted Chapin and Jim Boone, October 1979
Page Views: 541 total · 6/month
Shared By: Will S on Dec 28, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route takes the fat flake just left of Be Wary. Starts up Be Wary, transfers out to the flake at about 10' off the deck. Fun transition moves, and std ow/squeeze (or lieback) to the top of the flake where it eases.

Location

Middle of the south face, on the left wall of a dihedral system is an obvious fat flake. Descend by either walking off the back on obvious low angle terrain, or downclimbing Brimstone Stairway.

Protection

If leading (most will solo or TR), take the largest piece you own #4 camalot or bigger and maybe a couple pieces from fingers to hands. Build your own anchor with either gear or slinging large boulders.

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
5.8
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
5.8
I agree that this seems stout for 5.7. A fun climb though with neat moves. Feb 21, 2012
tro4130
Vista, CA
 
tro4130   Vista, CA
 
Tricky at the top of the flake but look for a foothold on the opposing wall and you are solid...too bad the flake doesn't feel so solid. Done it once, don't trust it enough for round 2. Jan 9, 2012
shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
  5.8
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
  5.8
Call me silly but this felt a little stout for 5.7. Apr 16, 2011

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