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Routes in Mount Gimli

Another Dimension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
East Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
North Face Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rumble in the Jungle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sailor Jerry T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Slave to Gravity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Slave to Gravity (Direct Start) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
South Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Jam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1 PG13
Valhalla Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Peter Koedt, James Hamlin, Peter Rowat, Nona Rowat, Greg Shannan, 1973
Page Views: 7,816 total · 81/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 28, 2010 with updates from Peter Rowat
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route

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In 1974, a Vancouver expedition hiked in on the Mulvey Creek Trail with enough friends to climb everything worth climbing. Three children and a sitter came in by chopper. This route was attempted, and Peter Koedt, Peter Rowat, Nona Rowat, and Greg Shannan did the first two pitches before weather forced a retreat. That September, Peter Koedt and James Hamlin returned to finish the ridge.
Peter Rowat and company made the first one day ascent of Mt Gimli's South Ridge during the early seventies. What follows is Peter Rowat's route description from the Kootney Karabiner, Volume 16, 1973:

"...The climb takes the crest of the ridge all the way. 1 The most southerly point of Gimli, the start of the ridge and hardest pitch of the climb, consists of a curvaceous jam crack at the back of a 120 ft high steep wide chimney capped by an overhang. Can be well protected with nuts and exits right at the top to a stance beside the overhang. 2 Go straight up 6 feet then back left onto the ridge crest and climb easier ground to the first notch. 3 Go up to obvious flake, aim for the obvious crack but traverse round corner to right. 4 Continue to big flat step. 5 Continuous 5.6 for 200 ft going right occasionally, to stance. 6 Continue up circumventing overhang on left. 7-10 Ridge rounds off gradually, scramble to top. Rating: 5.7. Gear: 6 pins from small horizontal to 1 1/2", 12 nuts."
High quality gneiss is climbed directly up the fin shaped southeast ridge of Mount Gimli. Since we use the Yosemite Decimal System, I like to use Valley routes for comparison. My crack-hating wife thought the crux first pitch to be much harder than Bishop's Jamcrack (5.8) and much easier than pitch two of the Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9).

Start climbing left of the pack-stash ledge, up delicate but easy slabs, 20 feet left of the main crack system. Climb the excellent white corner passing a roof with good holds and strenuous pulls out right. 35 meters up, there are about ten slings, with rings, around a flake for a rappel anchor. Better to belay on the ledge a few feet above the slings. Anchor in the main crack on the left. Beware of the hollow horizontal crack that appears to anchor the better part of the ledge.

The second pitch climbs up to the ridge using thin cracks and dark gneiss band holds. About 5.7 to start, then easing up to a notch/Gendarme belay with a slung chockstone.

Pitch three climbs more gorgeous, steep, and tricky banded gneiss. End at a tree and nice ledge on the ridge (5.7, see photo).

Pitch four is again steep and beautiful, with a hard lieback move. End atop the grassy and comfortable "Lunch Ledge" (5.6+, 60 meters).

Pitch five is again fun and exposed for 60 meters to the base of the notorious roof pitch (5.8).

Pitch six starts with a short corner up the the roof move. Left around the roof up to a small ledge (5.10a move).

Pitch seven is the last of the fifth class climbing. Two hundred feet, with more nicely sculpted rock, up to a belay below the "diving board" (5.7).

A long stretch of class III ridge leads to Mount Gimli's sub-summit, then a notch, and finally a class II scramble to the true summit. Go to the Mount Gimli page for descent beta.

More good beta for the Valhallas can be found on
sTePh aBeG's site.

Good pictures in this 2005 Valhalla trip report from Idaho.

Pellucid Wombat posted a trip report for Gimli on Supertopo


ddriver   SLC
Superb! Aug 5, 2014
Squamish, BC
Hans   Squamish, BC
First I have to say that Ken did an amazing job with this page. This is the standard for what a route description should be. Great job. I wish the rest of MP was like this.

Second, this route is fantastic.

Third, there are a lot of goats up there. And there are really a lot of annoying bugs, though once you are on the route the bugs go away. The goats don't. I saw two of them on the summit, and they followed us down. Jan 23, 2015
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Great climb with my old friend Maurice de St Jorre in 1999...he followed in great style in heavy Mt boots.... We both are X Brit climbers from way back in the mid 1950's Aug 14, 2017
On August 26, 2017, I returned and climbed the whole route with help from local guide Dave Lussier, 43 years after the first ascent of the first 2 pitches in 1973 -- due to rainstorm we rapped off after first two pitches. btw, PR is also an X-Brit climber from early 1960s. Sep 26, 2017
Ryan Orr
Portland, OR
Ryan Orr   Portland, OR
Did this yesterday.

The pitch off the lunch ledge to below the roof is not 60m. Needs a 70 or about 15-20 ft of simulclimbing with a 60. Which isn’t bad because the start of the pitch is about 20 ft of easy blocky. But just so you know. Also pretty
Much all the pitch lengths were off from MP and the Beckey topo but none of the others in a way that affect the rope you need.

Amazing climb. Just a couple 5.9 moves and the rest is super fun 5.7 and 5.8. Great climb to push your grade if you’re a solid 5.8 leader. Aug 6, 2018

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