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Routes in Dali Dome

Exibition S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
MC1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Surreal Peal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tough Animals (or Might as Well) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unknown 5.9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wilkinson Sword T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 195 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ross Hardwick & Scott Baxter spring 1976
Page Views: 1,474 total, 18/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Dec 27, 2010
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

An amazing line ascending a creaky flake crack system. Improbably thin flake, dubious pro at a modest grade: fantastic and a bit frightening.

P1: ascend the low angle corner, then, transition to a crack on the right, then another, gaining the two bolt belay anchor at the base of the steep flake. 5.4 70’.

P2: Climb the thin flake feature. Two bolts protect at stances (old Rawl buttonheads with thin SMC hangers in need of replacement). Move up, then right, then up and finally turn the low angle roof and gain the two bolt rappel anchor (with a spare older belay bolt). 5.7 125’.

Either rappel the route, or, continue to the top via the low angle crack (150 feet, easy 5th class).

If rappelling, fixed anchor available at the end of P1 and P2. Take care with the rope to avoid getting it stuck in the crack. Near the top of the last pitch, not far from the summit, there's a large flake which would require leaving a large cordellete (or similar) for a rappel anchor, if needed.

Walk off behind the Dome and back around to the climber’s left.

Take care on the fragile flexi flake. Amazing feature but, who knows for how much longer?

The route name must be in reference to the maker of razor blades...

Location

Located on the right side of the east face of Dali Dome.

Approach as for the main east face of Dali Dome, then, scramble up through the boulders to the base of the route.

Start just left of the tree at the base of the right facing corner.

Either rappel the route from the top of the second pitch (two ropes) or, climb the low angle crack to the top of the dome and walk/scramble down to the climber's left.

From the summit of Dali Dome, descend by zig zagging down weaknesses to the Dali-esque water grooved plateau below, staying kind of towards the edge of the abyss near the top, then walking down the low angle slab past a couple of neat dike features. Follow the drainage down, through large boulders and lovely spikey foliage, to the base of the dome and the approach hike trail/road.

Suggest either leaving a pack near the bottom of the hike (prior to scrambling up to the base of the route) or, carrying all gear up the route if the intent is to top out the dome, to avoid having to scramble up to the base of the route again.

Protection

Gear to include at least a double set of cams in the .5 to 3 camalot (or equivalent) range. A pair of #4 camalots would not go unused. Single cams in the .3 to .4 camalot (or equivalent) range. Set of large nuts.

Fixed belay/rappel stations for the first two pitches.

Note: the two protection bolts on the route are old Rawl buttonheads with thin SMC hangers. Dubious at best, but, useful for keeping the lead rope out of the crack.

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