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Ass Over Teacup

5.12-, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 19 votes
FA: Mike Strassman
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > W Stronghold > Isle of You > Trad Rock

Description

Great route! Another route that should see more traffic than it does. Crimp through thought provoking beginning over well-bolted, thin face up to crux at bulge then finish up a nice arête to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket.

Location

Right most route of two bolted lines between OK Corral and left facing dihedral.

Protection

Bolts to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket. Very well bolted. The route can be rapped with a 70m but you may have to swing over to a boulder to the left; knot the ends!! A top rope from the [shared] anchor would have a lot of rope drag. Instead, it's possible to use two 36" or 42" slings on two bolts (one borrowed from Hell in a Handbasket[left]) at the last bulge to make a top rope anchor. This can then be cleaned by continuing (leading) up to the anchor then rapping to either OK Corral anchor (with 60m) or to base (70m).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Yup.. pretty much.
[Hide Photo] Yup.. pretty much.
Great Route
[Hide Photo] Great Route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steven Lucarelli
Izola, SI
[Hide Comment] Not sure how this could be considered 11a unless I completely missed the sequence at the crux? I can typically onsight up to 11d at most areas and I couldn't even figure this one out no matter what I tried. Feb 8, 2013
Agjohns
  5.12c/d PG13
[Hide Comment] This route is amazing, hard sustained face climbing with a few extra hard defined crux sequences. Though this maybe a "Cochise 5.11" any other climbing area would likely rate it somewhere in the moderate to hard 5.12 range. Jan 7, 2014
RyanJames
  5.12 PG13
[Hide Comment] I'm also not sure where the 5.11 grade came from. This thing is nails hard! I would say that it's a solid mid-grade 5.12 - but a fantastic one! Definitely worth doing if you're looking for something very technical. Feb 23, 2016
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Maybe something broke? It's been awhile since I was on this route, but it felt in the 11 range back when I climbed it. I remember it being a great route. Feb 23, 2016
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] This route is actually about 135 ft. Guidebook calls it 12. 17+2 draws. Only slightly run-out and plenty of hard climbing with two cruxes. Sloper hands, good feet, body tension, relentless, classic! Jan 28, 2018