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Routes in Mount Assiniboine (3,618m)

North Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2-3
North Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Southwest Face T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c R
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade II
FA: Yvon Chounaird, Joe Faint, and Chris Jones, July 1967
Page Views: 1,594 total, 19/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 25, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

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INTRODUCTION

All three members of the first ascent team were involved with other new routes, both in Yosemite and the Canadian Rockies. In 1967, climbing ice of any angle was sketchy with one axe, a dagger or ice hammmer, and crampons with front points that were A3.

The North Face is usually approached using the Gmoser Highway. For a shorter and cheaper approach I would recommend using the same approach as the Southwest Face; Settlers Road. Details for the Assinniboine Lake approach can be found at the bottom of the MP page for the Southwest Face. Connecting from the Sturdee Col to the North Face looks quite reasonable in George Bell's photo.

The North Face is the route to do when the North Ridge is either too busy or snowy. Some May ascents have found good condition. Bring two tools, screws, rock protection, and two ropes for long rappels.

In 1977, Ray Jotterand did the first winter and solo ascent in three hours.

Mountain guides share condition reports @ ACMG

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