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Routes in Magdalena Inferior

La Que Faltava S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rantanplan S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 360 ft, 4 pitches
FA: A. Cardona A. Montesinos
Page Views: 2,533 total, 30/month
Shared By: Bobrunning Running on Dec 22, 2010
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

The route is four pitches, with the bottom three at a grade of 5.6. It is well bolted with what appears to be newer bolts. All bolts for this route have been painted green.

P1 - 30 meters - Is the hardest pitch. It is 5.6 sustained throughout. There are 9 bolts and three at the anchor. There was rap rings on the anchor.

P2 - 15 meters - There are three bolts listed on the topo for pitch two. I did not find the anchor for pitch two. I ended up linking pitch two and three.

P3 - 55 meters - There are eight bolts. The anchor has three bolts.

P4 - 20 meters - There are two bolts. The second did not have a hanger. This was easy climbing ~5.1 or 5.2.

Location

There are four routes on the east face. This is the second from the left. The bolts are painted green. The route to the right of it has yellow painted bolts (Rantanplan).

Protection

Solid bolts

Photos

Foster Conklin
Norwood, NJ
 
Foster Conklin   Norwood, NJ
 
The climbing itself isn't too remarkable, but the scenery is simply incredible. My single 60m rope got us off the far side of the formation in two very mellow raps. Overall this really is a great climb (certainly for the grade). Jan 3, 2017
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
A healthy-sized run out occurs about halfway through p1. I brought trad gear for the hell of it, but most of p1 seems mostly difficult to impossible to protect without bolts.
Many old, worn bolts including the old 3 bolt p1 belay anchor will be encountered as you progress. Apr 1, 2016
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
There is also a very good .9ish? route to the left of this one painted in yellow bolts! Sep 3, 2014
David Shuey
San Diego, CA
  5.6
David Shuey   San Diego, CA
  5.6
Since rebolting, the route has been evened out to 3 almost exactly 35m pitches. P1 is by far the gem pitch of the route with a sustained 5.6 difficulty throughout. 5.6, 35m, 3 bolt rap anchor. P2 is easier but still fun romping your way up big cobbles. 5.4, 35m, 3 bolt rap anchor. P3 is more or less a scramble to the summit. 5.3, 30m, 3 bolt rap anchor. With a 70m rope you can bail or descend from anchor of the routes anchors, but the normal descent uses a double rope rappel off the E face towards the gully trail. Feb 11, 2014
Anthony Baraff
Paris, France
 
Anthony Baraff   Paris, France
 
I think that the anchors may have been updated and the route may have been rebolted. There were far more bolts on P1 than indicated in this site or in the 2009 "Montserrat Rock Climbs Sant Benet & Gorros". I also didn't find a short 2nd pitch. It appears as though someone sensibly evened out the lengths of the 4 pitches by moving the anchors. Over all this is an okay introductory/warm-up climb for the area (solid rock, very frequent bolts, easy climbing and a nice view from the summit) but the climbing itself is a bit monotonous. Jun 12, 2013
Bobrunning Running
Madison, wi
 
Bobrunning Running   Madison, wi
 
Here is a website that contains an English topo for the area.

rocktopo.com/index.php?opci… Dec 22, 2010