Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Dirty Jugs

5.9, Sport,  Avg: 2.4 from 121 votes
FA: Kevin and Maggie Evansen, Bryan Smith, 4-05
Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Ozone > (4) Gold Wall
Access Issue: Extremely Sensitive Access - Please Read Details

Description

At a section of boxy, jagged rock to the right of the prow of Masterpiece Theatre, locate a bolt about 10 feet up. Climb through easy blocky rock and avoid manteling onto the small ledge by going left. Make moves off of the first ledge, style points for not belly flopping, and up to a second ledge. Onwards and upwards through what are now not-too-dirty jugs, to another good stance, and a last slightly tenuous reach move to obtain the anchors.

You could also go right at the second big ledge onto Sweeping Beauty. This is the recommended approach for that route.

Location

Right side of Gold Wall, left of suspended block and the deep corner of Sweeping Beauty.

Protection

10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ebb Ebbing
Vancouver, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] A couple of very awkward spots on the lower portion, which are harder than they would appear at first glance given the size of the ledges that you have to work with in these areas. However, the holds aren't right where you'd want them and/or bulges get in your way. The "jugs" come out once you reach the top portion, and fortunately aren't too dirty these days. This portion is a bit steep, so the jugs are nice to have to hang on to! I'd give the top 3 stars, but the bottom 1 star (so averages out to 2 stars). Jun 6, 2011
Beau Bot
Portland, Oregon
 
[Hide Comment] Lower section is quite awkward with some moves being over ledges.

There is an anchor about halfway up you can end there or continue the full climb.

Upper sectionis glorious and slightly overhung with a great view. Aug 3, 2015
Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Being taller than most, I had little trouble with those awkward chest-high ledges but I can see how they might be prohibitive to the more diminutive climber. Beyond that stuff, however, there is some fun 3 star climbing which is very representative of the grade. Just don't fall of you'll bust your shins same as on any Ozone route. May 9, 2016
Spencer Edgren
Vancouver, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Fun climb, but 3 or the hangers are loose, and one of the anchor bolts was so loose I tightened it down with my fingers. Probably could use some hardware maintenance. Apr 2, 2019
Jeff The Grump
Columbia river gorge
 
[Hide Comment] The juggy face Climbing is the best part. If you’re not confident at the grade be careful leading and make sure you have a competent belayer. There are lots of places to deck on ledges. Apr 21, 2019