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Routes in (4) Gold Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beyond the Glory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitterroot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Jugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganesh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screaming for Change T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siddhartha T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whine and Cheese S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Kevin and Maggie Evansen, Bryan Smith, 4-05
Page Views: 1,984 total, 23/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 21, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

At a section of boxy, jagged rock to the right of the prow of Masterpiece Theatre, locate a bolt about 10 feet up. Climb through easy blocky rock and avoid manteling onto the small ledge by going left. Make moves off of the first ledge, style points for not belly flopping, and up to a second ledge. Onwards and upwards through what are now not-too-dirty jugs, to another good stance, and a last slightly tenuous reach move to obtain the anchors.

You could also go right at the second big ledge onto Sweeping Beauty. This is the recommended approach for that route.

Location

Right side of Gold Wall, left of suspended block and the deep corner of Sweeping Beauty.

Protection

10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor

Photos

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Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
  5.9
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
  5.9
Being taller than most, I had little trouble with those awkward chest-high ledges but I can see how they might be prohibitive to the more diminutive climber. Beyond that stuff, however, there is some fun 3 star climbing which is very representative of the grade. Just don't fall of you'll bust your shins same as on any Ozone route. May 9, 2016
b0t23
Portland, Oregon
 
b0t23   Portland, Oregon
 
Lower section is quite awkward with some moves being over ledges.

There is an anchor about halfway up you can end there or continue the full climb.

Upper sectionis glorious and slightly overhung with a great view. Aug 3, 2015
Ebb Ebbing
Vancouver, WA
  5.9
Ebb Ebbing   Vancouver, WA
  5.9
A couple of very awkward spots on the lower portion, which are harder than they would appear at first glance given the size of the ledges that you have to work with in these areas. However, the holds aren't right where you'd want them and/or bulges get in your way. The "jugs" come out once you reach the top portion, and fortunately aren't too dirty these days. This portion is a bit steep, so the jugs are nice to have to hang on to! I'd give the top 3 stars, but the bottom 1 star (so averages out to 2 stars). Jun 6, 2011