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Routes in (4) Gold Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beyond the Glory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitterroot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Jugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganesh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screaming for Change T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siddhartha T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whine and Cheese S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Kevin Evansen, Bryan Smith, 3-05
Page Views: 2,315 total, 27/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 21, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Start up the crispy rock to the first bolt of Afternoon Delight. Instead of following the crack, stay right on the bolted slab. Climb over easy stone, trending right towards the arete. The angle gradually kicks back as you step around the right side. Pull through a sequence of fun steep jugs, step around the left side again, and clip the anchors.

Location

Middle of Gold Wall, between Afternoon Delight (same start) and Whine & Cheese

Protection

12 bolts including anchors (book recommends a 1" cam between bolts 4 and 5, but it is not at all necessary)

Photos

Be aware that the last bolt before the anchors on Kung Fu is loose and spinning. I had a nut tool and tried to tighten the nut and hanger, but the bolt itsel is spinning in the rock. I may try and get out to rebolt the move but it might be a while. Jun 21, 2015
Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
 
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
 
I enjoyed this route immensely. For those hungover days when hard projecting isn't happening, but you still need to get that heart rate up enough to get the beer out of your system, this is the route to climb.

Loved the gradual increase in overhang, along with the abundance of perfect jugs and interesting movements. 10/10 climb! May 9, 2016
Kev
Kev  
The description is not acurate. Afternoon Delight uses the first bolt of Kung Fu. Not the other way around. Kung Fu was put up a couple of years before Afternoon Delight. Apr 24, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
This is the best sport route under 5.10 at Ozone, in my opinion. Aug 10, 2014