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Routes in (3) Snake Wall

Before the Storm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eight Is Enough T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opdyke's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Party At The Moon Tower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vicious S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Jim Opdyke, 1984
Page Views: 164 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 21, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Head up on jumbled blocks to another ledge. Another awkward mantle move to get up into the dihedral, then stem your way through a few good rests. At the last stance below the roof, there is a huge chunk of rock in the center of the dihedral that appears to be completely detached - you'll know it. Move up under the overhang, plug some good gear, then pull an airy move onto the face. Climb 10 feet without pro on 5- rock to the anchor.

"Rating of this climb is debated, but eight is enough." - 2008 Ozone Guidebook

Location

On the ledge above and to the right of Snake Face. To the right of the arete that contains Party at the Moon Tower.

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

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dydayley
camas,wa
  5.8
dydayley   camas,wa
  5.8
I on sighted this recently and it seemed a more natural and better belay spot to start on the ground on chaos and trend left onto eight is enough. no drag to speak of and a longer interesting line. I highly recommend climbing it this way if you tend to sling everything anyway. It was only after looking it up on here that I found out we had done this variation. Jun 1, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.8
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.8
I thought it was pretty easy for the grade, and protected quite well. Top is a bit runout, but its big jugs the whole way with a great 1" cam under the roof protecting your fall. May 21, 2016
Matt Baker
Portland, OR
Matt Baker   Portland, OR
The direct steep jug finish at the top was fun Feb 17, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
There is one chunk on this pitch that just scares the $h!t outta me. This is a decently fun route, if hard to protect, but that chunk...

If you slap it it sounds kinda hollow, but if you pull on it there won't be any give. It appears to be disconnected on all sides and behind.

Fun, but not recommended. Aug 10, 2013
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.8
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.8
For an experienced leader setting up a TR for relative newbies, the sparseness of the protection made this route pretty cool! I thought there'd be some bolts up there so I only brought three cams (.75", 1" and 2"). I put the 2" in about 40' up and then slotted both of the other ones just below the finishing bulge. Fun! Jun 12, 2012
benberry
  5.8
benberry  
  5.8
Very scary for a 5.8. Fun and interesting movement with great stances for placing gear. Make sure to get a few pieces of gear under the roof because the ending although juggy is a little runout.
Keep an eye out for loose rock there are a few loose chunks in the corner. Aug 2, 2011
Eight Is Enough is a fun climb but not a casual lead. Siddhartha makes a much better introduction to the grade and the protection is plentiful.

Chad Jun 8, 2011