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Routes in Ugly Duckling Boulder

Battle of the Shadows V8-9 7B+
Fryberger's Dyke V9-10 7C+
Ugly Duckling V3 6A
Vise Grips V7 7A+
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Travis Rypkema
Page Views: 91 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Dec 18, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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11 Opinions

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Description

Few moves but still a powerful classic. For a lot of people the crux will be getting established on the wall. Start matched on the slopey breadloaf pinch and make just two moves to the top.

Location

North side of the boulder, far right side. Starting hold is as high as you can reach on the large slanted dyke.

Protection

One pad will get you by.

Photos

Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
I think Chuck Fryberger added the traverse into this problem. It follows the slopey rail from left to right. V9? V10? Feb 8, 2011
A sit start would be cool. Feb 7, 2011
Joshua Dreher
Bremerton, WA
Joshua Dreher   Bremerton, WA
Does anyone know who the red dot guy was? Feb 7, 2011
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
Just took a peek at Mike Olson's guide from 1997. He rates this route V6 and named it "Pressure". He states a sit starts likewise. I hope this helps shed more light on this enigma. Mike Olson is also responsible for the rock pocks Travis mentioned. This route as with many others have been claimed for the FA by a number of climbers. I bouldered a bit in this area in the mid 1980's but don't recall climbing this one. Feb 4, 2011
Greg, your dates are more than likely correct. 2003 seems a little late.
Chris, there probably is a red dot there. Some dude went around putting red dots on problems all over the hills and claimed FA's of established problems. Feb 4, 2011
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
 
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
 
Oops. Sorry, somebody misinformed me I guess. Either that or I thought I had seen one of those stupid red dots at the start. I can't remember. Feb 3, 2011
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
Oh, and I thought it was Vis Grips, as in Tra-Vis Grips. Feb 3, 2011
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
I thought you did this first Travis. I almost changed it, because I'm a big shot administrator and I can do that, but I was going to check with you first. Are you sure it was 2003? I want to say it was earlier than that, like '99 or 2000. I was living in Salt Lake starting in Sept. of 2000. Maybe I did it on a trip back over the summer. I can't remember. I know I'm letting you down.... Feb 3, 2011
Joshua Dreher
Bremerton, WA
Joshua Dreher   Bremerton, WA
I like "Vice Grips" better. Feb 3, 2011
I'm pretty sure I got the FA of this. I asked around and no one(Vern Phinney, Ronagon, et al.) seemed to know about it at the time, summer of 2003 I think. Greg did it that fall, so, whatever year that is. He'll remember.........
Oh, and I called it "Bears see things pretty much the way they are" Feb 2, 2011