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Routes in Turd World Country

Cactus Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Howdy Ho! (The Turd) T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychovino's Spaghetti Hell S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sodom and America T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Martinov & Pon, 2002
Page Views: 89 total · 1/month
Shared By: JFM on Dec 16, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an OK climb with good protection.

Start up a face with a couple of easy moves, move through the well-protected crux with a long reach up & over a dynamite channel, then mantle onto a scree-filled ledge. Careful here as the pebbles will tumble onto your belayer.

Pull an odd move near the corner before mounting the lichen-covered face with a left hand side-pull. Pass a bolt on the face, clip a bolt on the floor of the ledge, mantle, do one move on a block and mantle again to top out.

Location

Find the start on some black streaking a few feet left of the yellow "Fallen Rocks" sign.

Probably best to walk off around back of the large block and to the right as rapping down the route (or to the roadway) isn't nice on the rope....

Protection

6 bolts. A few shoulder-length slings might be nice to ease up the rope drag.

It tops out on a large, safe shelf with an anchor consisting of 2 bolts (one with a chain) and a piton.

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