bryans

[Hide Comment] a one inch (red) cam is what "we" always used... Dec 14, 2010

Kev	[Hide Comment] The working title to this climb when we were bolting it was "Long and Hard". I agree that this is one of the better climbs at the Ozone....mostly because of the last 70 feet. Jan 3, 2011

C h a d   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Didn't notice a spot were a #1 Camalot would fit but there is a great slot for a #.75 right above the crux. Chad Jun 17, 2011

Adam Therneau   5.11d

[Hide Comment] Awesome route! Feels a little sandy at 11c, but maybe I suck at this style of climb. The bottom crux is definitely the hardest move but I kept falling on the upper arete. Nov 2, 2011

Micah Klesick Charlotte, NC   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Great route and the best route at Ozone IMO. The gear placement is totally not needed on this route and easily skipped (4' more to the next bolt, and if you fell, you wouldn't even touch the rock due to the overhang). Make sure to clip the first 2-3 bolts with long runners to make the drag manageable at the top. Sep 23, 2014

Kev	[Hide Comment] "The gear is totally not needed"....yeah maybe if you are the MAN. I place it everytime because i am mortal and afraid of breaking my ankles. Apr 24, 2015

Nate Ball   5.11

[Hide Comment] Definitely placed the piece on my on-sight attempt. A BD1 was tight, pretty sure a .75 would be ideal. There is now a definite upper crux - not as hard, more technical - as it seems a crucial hold broke off. Most people will likely end up way left or way right of the bolt line as the climbing steepens briefly. Very contrived ending but whatever, it's a great line! Apr 20, 2018

C h a d   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Nate, do you know for sure that a hold broke off on the upper arete? I haven’t noticed a change. The arete has always been tough and wandering. Chad Apr 22, 2018

Nate Ball   5.11

[Hide Comment] There was a very clear rock scar among several awful holds right on the arete. I tried doing it directly but it would have bumped the grade significantly. I ended up going way left, my partner ended up going way right. A fall from either option would have meant a bad pendulum. Apr 30, 2018

Chris Fedorczak Portland, OR

[Hide Comment] Amazingly fun climb. The crux is extremely well protected by a bolt just before pulling the move and a perfect .75 just above it. And the 5.10 climbing after the crux is also fun and sustained with a few key rests mixed in. Get on it! Jun 3, 2022

Nacho Delgado Ferreiro A Coruña, ES   5.11c/d

[Hide Comment] Short video of the crux. Awesome route. youtube.com/shorts/3P59NVZt… I see how the cam could save your ankles, but I preferred to keep calm and go to the next bolt. Idk about broken holds but there's definitely an (easier) cruxy section up in the arete if you use the front of it all the time. Jul 28, 2022

Narcissus Embodied Portland, OR

[Hide Comment] 5.Cruiser to a 1 move wonder crux, followed by 75 ft of mid 10. Not talking down on this route, it was delightfully fun, and the positioning on the upper arete was wonderful. But you get about 2 moves of 11c, and that's it. If you just successfully pulled the crux, you have no need for the .75 May 31, 2023

Kris Erickson   5.11c/d

[Hide Comment] A .75 fits perfect just after pulling the crux. In my opinion, this and Wild Things are the best routes in Portland. A must do. Jun 8, 2023

Kev	[Hide Comment] Listed FA as unknown? I have the FA and named this route. Apr 19, 2024

Kev	[Hide Comment] FA Unknown? I bolted (along with Brian Smith) and have the FA to this fine route Jun 7, 2024

James Wellence Portland, OR

[Hide Comment] Would be another popular Ozone 5.10 if not for the crux shutting people down early. So this is a bit of a one move wonder, but still a pretty good climb. The crux is probably V3, and it's more tricky-to-figure-out than physically demanding. Then lots of 5.10 climbing afterwards. Due to the low crux with plenty of no-hands rests, this may be a good climb for a boulderer to get their first 11c. Oct 13, 2024

Laust Deleuran   5.11c

[Hide Comment] DO NOT CLIMB – SPRING 2026 – RAVEN'S NEST There's a raven's(?) nest under the roof at the top of AFTERNOON DELIGHT. I would advise staying off of that, and adjacent climbs, until late May / early June, when the chicks should've left the nest. Apr 12, 2026