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Routes in (4) Gold Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beyond the Glory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitterroot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Jugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganesh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screaming for Change T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siddhartha T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whine and Cheese S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,158 total · 36/month
Shared By: Eric Schnepel on Dec 13, 2010 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Wander up the easy slab past a couple bolts. Grab a big ole jug and swing out onto the overhung face. Fire the crux section involving some awesome slapping and crimping. A solid 5.11 crux for sure. Grab the sandy ledge and throw a .75 Camalot or equivalent into the slot. Gain the ledge and find one of many possible rests. Follow the bolt line up the beautiful arete-prow to the anchor. The position of this line is unbeatable and the moves are top notch. One of my favorites at Ozone.


One route left of Beyond the Glory. It's a pretty obvious arete with an overhang at the beginning.


13 bolts and an optional .75 Camalot.


a one inch (red) cam is what "we" always used... Dec 14, 2010
The working title to this climb when we were bolting it was "Long and Hard". I agree that this is one of the better climbs at the Ozone....mostly because of the last 70 feet. Jan 3, 2011
another Chad
another Chad  
Didn't notice a spot were a #1 Camalot would fit but there is a great slot for a #.75 right above the crux.

Chad Jun 17, 2011
Adam Therneau
Adam Therneau  
Awesome route! Feels a little sandy at 11c, but maybe I suck at this style of climb. The bottom crux is definitely the hardest move but I kept falling on the upper arete. Nov 2, 2011
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Great route and the best route at Ozone IMO. The gear placement is totally not needed on this route and easily skipped (4' more to the next bolt, and if you fell, you wouldn't even touch the rock due to the overhang). Make sure to clip the first 2-3 bolts with long runners to make the drag manageable at the top. Sep 23, 2014
"The gear is totally not needed"....yeah maybe if you are the MAN. I place it everytime because i am mortal and afraid of breaking my ankles. Apr 24, 2015

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