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Routes in (4) Gold Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beyond the Glory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitterroot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Jugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganesh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screaming for Change T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siddhartha T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whine and Cheese S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,065 total, 36/month
Shared By: Eric Schnepel on Dec 13, 2010 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Wander up the easy slab past a couple bolts. Grab a big ole jug and swing out onto the overhung face. Fire the crux section involving some awesome slapping and crimping. A solid 5.11 crux for sure. Grab the sandy ledge and throw a .75 Camalot or equivalent into the slot. Gain the ledge and find one of many possible rests. Follow the bolt line up the beautiful arete-prow to the anchor. The position of this line is unbeatable and the moves are top notch. One of my favorites at Ozone.

Location

One route left of Beyond the Glory. It's a pretty obvious arete with an overhang at the beginning.

Protection

13 bolts and an optional .75 Camalot.

Photos

Kev
Kev  
"The gear is totally not needed"....yeah maybe if you are the MAN. I place it everytime because i am mortal and afraid of breaking my ankles. Apr 24, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.11c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.11c
Great route and the best route at Ozone IMO. The gear placement is totally not needed on this route and easily skipped (4' more to the next bolt, and if you fell, you wouldn't even touch the rock due to the overhang). Make sure to clip the first 2-3 bolts with long runners to make the drag manageable at the top. Sep 23, 2014
Adam Therneau
  5.11d
Adam Therneau  
  5.11d
Awesome route! Feels a little sandy at 11c, but maybe I suck at this style of climb. The bottom crux is definitely the hardest move but I kept falling on the upper arete. Nov 2, 2011
another Chad
  5.11c
another Chad  
  5.11c
Didn't notice a spot were a #1 Camalot would fit but there is a great slot for a #.75 right above the crux.

Chad Jun 17, 2011
Kev
Kev  
The working title to this climb when we were bolting it was "Long and Hard". I agree that this is one of the better climbs at the Ozone....mostly because of the last 70 feet. Jan 3, 2011
bryans  
a one inch (red) cam is what "we" always used... Dec 14, 2010