Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Fred Maki
Page Views: 1,174 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ben May on Dec 12, 2010
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

The crux section is actually a new progression in this route. Fred re-bolted this one so that you have to shift onto the areté from the face after the first or second bolt. There's this sharp right-hand crimp I kinda had to throw to but the feet are good.

Location

El Niño Wall
You'll have to rap down to lead this route.
Set up a top belay to climb out.
Reference ACSD Pocket Guide

Protection

bolts
shut anchor

Photos

Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a/b
Dan 60D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a/b
Not sure if I did the route correctly but it seemed somewhat contrived the whole way. The second bolt was extremely difficult to clip with ledgefall potential. The next 3 or 4 bolts consisted of the following movement: climb up on obvious holds, move WAY right to clip, move back left, climb up again and repeat. Following the bolt line would have included overhanging terrain on marginal holds and little feet, hard to imagine it going at low 5.10. At about the 3/4 mark, the bolt line and the holds converge on the arete, at which point the climbing becomes very fun and exciting. Jan 13, 2014