Just One Tick Away
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, TR, 95 ft|
|FA:||Deb Thompson, LP?|
|Page Views:||395 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Dec 10, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionIf you climb Ixodes, you may just be drawn to a fracture just to the right and wonder. Turns out, the rock is actually better than Ixodes, it's far less than vertical, and the moves are a bit easier, too.
At best, this could be a headpoint with the first good pro 35-40' up. It's probably a wiser TR. You can reduce the swing with a green Alien/#2 Camalot, #4 BD wire, #0 TCU.
Start to the right of the fracture line under a big knob. Move up to the knob. A hold or two on the right makes this easier. Mantle or semi-mantle onto the knob. Find nice features on either side of the fracture. Continue past the slight opening in the crack. Continue to the right on fun flakes. Move left at a ledge. Continue up a groove to the right of the anchors for Ixodes.
ProtectionTo TR, green Alien/#2 Camalot, #4 BD wire, #0 TCU for directionals and the anchor for Ixodes.
To lead, a bloody bull headed orneriness, nerves of steel, a big sling for the knob, #0 TCU, a #4 BD wire, and green Alien/#2 Camalot.