Type: Trad, TR, 95 ft
FA: Deb Thompson, LP?
Page Views: 437 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

If you climb Ixodes, you may just be drawn to a fracture just to the right and wonder. Turns out, the rock is actually better than Ixodes, it's far less than vertical, and the moves are a bit easier, too.

At best, this could be a headpoint with the first good pro 35-40' up. It's probably a wiser TR. You can reduce the swing with a green Alien/#2 Camalot, #4 BD wire, #0 TCU.

Start to the right of the fracture line under a big knob. Move up to the knob. A hold or two on the right makes this easier. Mantle or semi-mantle onto the knob. Find nice features on either side of the fracture. Continue past the slight opening in the crack. Continue to the right on fun flakes. Move left at a ledge. Continue up a groove to the right of the anchors for Ixodes.

Location

This starts ~25 feet to the right of Ixodes and finishes about 10 feet right of Ixodes.

Protection

To TR, green Alien/#2 Camalot, #4 BD wire, #0 TCU for directionals and the anchor for Ixodes.

To lead, a bloody bull headed orneriness, nerves of steel, a big sling for the knob, #0 TCU, a #4 BD wire, and green Alien/#2 Camalot.

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