Avg: 0.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||Deb Thompson, LP?|
|Page Views:||990 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Dec 10, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
We'd recommend keeping the belayer well down and right of the climb protected by a big flake. Start up an interesting crack on the left that opens up beyond its edges. Make a slightly balancy move right into the obvious, main crack using a big chockstone that didn't seem to move. Head up the crack that offers big edges to the side of the crack almost whenever you need them. Find a near vertical section at mid-height. Check out the wild, thin flakes out right. Near the top, there is a mobile chockstone that was stable enough for a judicious foot placement. You can finish in the obvious split or continue up easy jugs to the top of the pinnacle (and downclimb 20' back to the split).
Walk off slippery slopes down the backside. If you drag up a timid soul, you may consider lowering 'em off the front first.