Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Deb Thompson, LP?
Page Views: 990 total · 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. Details

Description

This line seems so obvious, but given the flakes cleaned, it appears it has not received any attention. It is most definitely adventure climbing with some grittiness, a few wobbly chockstones, and a fragile flake or two to spice it up. The crack affords fingers, hands, fists, and even a bit of offwidth. So, come prepared for a sport climber's bad dream.

We'd recommend keeping the belayer well down and right of the climb protected by a big flake. Start up an interesting crack on the left that opens up beyond its edges. Make a slightly balancy move right into the obvious, main crack using a big chockstone that didn't seem to move. Head up the crack that offers big edges to the side of the crack almost whenever you need them. Find a near vertical section at mid-height. Check out the wild, thin flakes out right. Near the top, there is a mobile chockstone that was stable enough for a judicious foot placement. You can finish in the obvious split or continue up easy jugs to the top of the pinnacle (and downclimb 20' back to the split).

Walk off slippery slopes down the backside. If you drag up a timid soul, you may consider lowering 'em off the front first.

Location

This ascends the obvious crack maybe 50' to the left of PTSD.

Protection

#1 Camalot, #0.75 Camalot, #9 hex, #2 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot, red Alien, #0.5 Camalot, orange Alien. Anchor options include: #1 & 4 Camalots, green Alien, medium wire.

Photos