PRINT: Rock Climb Southwest Chute 1, High Sierra

Southwest Chute 1

Easy 5th, Trad, Alpine, Grade III,

Avg: 2.6 from 32 votes
FA: First descent by Oscar Cook, Sylvia Kershaw, Mildred Jentsch, Hunter Morrison and Isabella Morrison, September 3, 1949
California > High Sierra > 09 - Palisades… > Thunderbolt Peak

Description

The crux for us on this route was definitely route finding, as there isn't much beta on this route. The chute V's out towards the upper-end and it's very important to stay to the right. Follow this up to a large chockstone that you can climb underneath. Climb on top of the chockstone and climb some easy 5th trending southeast and you'll come upon the summit block.

Location

Bishop Pass Trailhead in South Lake to Bishop Pass to Thunderbolt Pass

Protection

There are 1/4 inchers on the top of the summit block. We lasso'd it, and aided up.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Short section of 4th/5th from the top of the SW Chute #1

SW Chute #1 from Thunderbolt Pass (Photo: J.E.)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ken H
Granite, UT

Easy 5th

This route is called 3rd class in guidebook but I think it depends a lot on snow. Plus if you want to stand on the very top it is 5th class for sure. If you just wanted to stand next to the summit pinnacle then maybe only 4th class. We had ice axes, crampons, rope, and some gear and used it all (June 2009). Since we had the rope I recall doing two raps back to the notch and down led the part from on top of the chock stones where you are to traverse on the 3 ft ledge as that was covered in snow. Jun 29, 2012

Gary Schenk

5.5

The easiest way up the summit block is at least 5.5 Jan 22, 2015

Kaitlyn Zeichick
Lakewood, CO

Thunderbolt to North Pal trip report: summitseeker775258741.wordp… Aug 5, 2020

Mike Toffey
Yosemite/Lone Pine, CA

3rd

Southwest Chute is class 3 with 1 section of class 3+ or easy 4th right before the summit block. Sep 5, 2021