[Hide Comment] As good as it gets at the Bird. Dec 6, 2010

[Hide Comment] As good as it gets at Birdsboro is a bit of a stretch. It's certainly worth climbing, but there are a number of lines here that far exceed this in quality. Apr 30, 2012

[Hide Comment] I have the FFA on this route forget the bolts that I origanelly put in! I left them in because birdsboro is a sport destination and there out of the way. But this climb is a awesome Trad line with Pg gear! Mar 8, 2013

[Hide Comment] Chris,

While you got the first redpoint on gear (which is a commendable effort) you do not have the FFA. I was the first to redpoint and used the bolts for pro. There is only one FFA. There aren't separate FFAs for different protection schemes. Mar 18, 2013

[Hide Comment] Chris,

I'm not interested in a pissing contest. I know you in person and like and respect you. If you want to amicably discuss it in person sometime that would be great. However, I think you are confused on the definition of a first free ascent. It has nothing to do with the style of protection. You bolted the thing afterall. Birdsboro is a sport climbing area not a bastion of old school, hardcore traditional climbing ethics.

As far as style goes, working (i.e. hangdogging) a well protected route on gear on your way to a redpoint is no more "ethical" or "badass" than working the route on the existing bolts. It's been "reduced" to a sport climb at that point anyway. Crackalicious is well protected using the bolts or gear and is in no way runout. If "pure" and "ethical" style was such a concern, why did you choose to bolt it in the first place?

Using your definition of a FFA where so called "improved" style invalidates a previous first free ascent using an "inferior" style, the route still awaits a "true" FFA. This would of couse be onsight, chalkless, barefoot, naked and free solo. If that's the case then there are quite a few lines at Birdsboro as well as thousands more around the country awaiting a FFA. Sep 23, 2014

[Hide Comment] I freed this route before you came out to even climb it. And that is fine you guys have made your point. You have the fa on sport I have it on trad there is a obvious difference. Also this route may be an 11+ at Indian Creek Utah but here at Birdsboro it is a 12 in comparison to all the other 11's and 12's. Jul 15, 2015

[Hide Comment] Just a heads up, back in 19-dickety-2 I climbed this onsight, chalkless, barefoot, naked and free solo with an agitated squirrel perched on my head while onlookers insulted my mother and 1000 naked women threw little pickles at me.

I'm hoping to get back on it this fall in better style. Apr 15, 2016

[Hide Comment] ^ with strictly tricams and ballnuts Apr 18, 2016

[Hide Comment] anybody have any gear beta for this line. Is it like small c4 or like small c3s? Jun 15, 2018

[Hide Comment] I say I'm Dirty Dan Jul 1, 2022