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Routes in West Wall

Crackalicious T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hot Pockets S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Precarious S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spit On It ! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where The Wild Things Are S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: FA Jonathan Clark August 2010
Page Views: 2,531 total, 30/month
Shared By: Jon Clark on Dec 6, 2010
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This line follows the obvious crack system through the right facing corner on the left side of the West Wall.

Scramble up to the base of the corner passsing a bolt or two. Consider skipping these or back cleaning to avoid rope drag. Use caution as the rock quality is poor through this section. Jam and layback through a powerful sequence that is capped by a mini roof. Your efforts will be rewarded with a stance after the roof. Stem your way up to the anchors.

While eyeballing this line from a neighboring route, the crack through the crux has widened significantly since I was on this in 2010. Not sure if this is from aggressive cleaning or traffic, but I remember thin locks on razor sharp rock for a couple of moves below the mini roof. The top looks like it has cleaned up quite a bit.

Protection

8 bolts, ring anchors



Photos

^ with strictly tricams and ballnuts Apr 18, 2016
Just a heads up, back in 19-dickety-2 I climbed this onsight, chalkless, barefoot, naked and free solo with an agitated squirrel perched on my head while onlookers insulted my mother and 1000 naked women threw little pickles at me.

I'm hoping to get back on it this fall in better style. Apr 15, 2016
joeforte
palmerton, pa
  5.11+
joeforte   palmerton, pa
  5.11+
Actually Chris, when I showed up at the climb and clean that day, you told me it had not seen a first ascent, gear or bolts. After I sent it later that day on trad gear, you said "Awesome, but we're still calling it crackalicious", and leaving the bolts. I could care less what it is called, or if the bolts stay, but according to you, at the climb and clean, I had the FA. Apr 14, 2016
Chris Acosta
  5.12b
Chris Acosta  
  5.12b
I freed this route before you came out to even climb it. And that is fine you guys have made your point. You have the fa on sport I have it on trad there is a obvious difference. Also this route may be an 11+ at Indian Creek Utah but here at Birdsboro it is a 12 in comparison to all the other 11's and 12's. Jul 15, 2015
joeforte
palmerton, pa
  5.11+
joeforte   palmerton, pa
  5.11+
I have to agree with Jon, and it's not even worth arguing. It is a FACT. The first free ascent is exactly that. The FIRST free ascent. It doesn't matter if someone climbs it later in a more "badass" style (G trad is badass?). If I start climbing other sport routes on dicey gear does that invalidate the original FFA, and give me the new FFA? No. FFA is FFA, regardless of protection.

Also, when did you climb it on gear Chris? I remember at the 2010 climb and clean, you told me that noone had freed it yet, and I freed it later that day on trad gear. I don't know if Jon did it before me or not, and I could care less. It is totally safe and easy to protect on gear. Oct 26, 2014
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
Chris,

I'm not interested in a pissing contest. I know you in person and like and respect you. If you want to amicably discuss it in person sometime that would be great. However, I think you are confused on the definition of a first free ascent. It has nothing to do with the style of protection. You bolted the thing afterall. Birdsboro is a sport climbing area not a bastion of old school, hardcore traditional climbing ethics.

As far as style goes, working (i.e. hangdogging) a well protected route on gear on your way to a redpoint is no more "ethical" or "badass" than working the route on the existing bolts. It's been "reduced" to a sport climb at that point anyway. Crackalicious is well protected using the bolts or gear and is in no way runout. If "pure" and "ethical" style was such a concern, why did you choose to bolt it in the first place?

Using your definition of a FFA where so called "improved" style invalidates a previous first free ascent using an "inferior" style, the route still awaits a "true" FFA. This would of couse be onsight, chalkless, barefoot, naked and free solo. If that's the case then there are quite a few lines at Birdsboro as well as thousands more around the country awaiting a FFA. Sep 23, 2014
Chris Acosta
  5.12b
Chris Acosta  
  5.12b
Jon,
I disagree, if there is an aid route and you lead in on gear you free it. If there is a aid route and it is impossible and you bolt it you free it on the bolts. If there is a bolted route and it is thought to be to tough, dangerous or impossible and you climb it on gear you have free climbed it in a much more pure and ethical style! So once again congrats on the fa on bolts. But Trad will always count as being more free than clipping bolts, plus it's way more badass!!!! So in conclusion I still feel that I have the FFA, agree to disagree...... Sep 22, 2014
joeforte
palmerton, pa
  5.11+
joeforte   palmerton, pa
  5.11+
I did this on gear back in 2010 at the climb and clean. A foothold broke after the crux and I fell on my onsight attempt. I climbed it clean later that day. It is awkward and potentially more dangerous to use the bolts, since they are behind you and have the potential to flip you if you fall (the bolts put the rope behind your leg, gear in the crack keeps the rope in front of you). May 28, 2013
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
Chris,

While you got the first redpoint on gear (which is a commendable effort) you do not have the FFA. I was the first to redpoint and used the bolts for pro. There is only one FFA. There aren't separate FFAs for different protection schemes. Mar 18, 2013
Chris Acosta
  5.12b
Chris Acosta  
  5.12b
I have the FFA on this route forget the bolts that I origanelly put in! I left them in because birdsboro is a sport destination and there out of the way. But this climb is a awesome Trad line with Pg gear! Mar 8, 2013
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
As good as it gets at Birdsboro is a bit of a stretch. It's certainly worth climbing, but there are a number of lines here that far exceed this in quality. Apr 30, 2012
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
  5.12a
As good as it gets at the Bird. Dec 6, 2010