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Routes in Mount Hector and Mount Andromache

Achilles Spire S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
North Glacier Route Mod. Snow
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Type: Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: R.G Cairns, A.A McCoubrey, R. Neave 1933
Page Views: 560 total · 6/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Dec 5, 2010
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

The crux of this route may be the approach to the glacier. This area is very avi prone. Once at the toe of the glacier rope up and ascend up the low angle glacier. A short ice/snow headwall 40 degrees is encountered befor reaching a Col. From the Col scramble 3rd class rock for a few hundred feet to the summit. Rip the skins for a great ski run or slog it back to the road, 4-8hrs roundtrip.

Location

Park at Hector Creek on the Ice Fields Parkway, 17km north of the Trans Canadian HWY. You cant see the north Glacier from the road. Follow the creek through the woods up into the big avi prone bowl to the toe of the glacier.

Protection

Glacier kit, crampons, ice axe.

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