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Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.)
5.13c,
Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3 from 14
votes
FA: Equipped by Josh Smith, FA Lee Brinckerhoff
New Mexico
> Jemez Mountains…
> Upper E Fork (UEF)
> (E) Monster Wall
Description
Hardish start to a great rest followed by a long difficult boulder problem up the arete. Strangely left leg intensive.
Thuggish climbing out the low roof to a great rest at the break. Pull out the bulge above with big moves on pretty good holds to a clip. Slap up the arete above on some really fun holds skipping a clip on the way to an edge on the arete. Make the clip and bust the last couple of hard moves up and left to a juggy horizontal. Easier climbing leads to the top of the route.
This route can also be climbed on THIN holds to the left of the bolt line at the cost of a bit more skin.
Location
Just to the right of Godzilla Meets Bambi, the second route from the left on the main section of cliff.
Protection
11 bolts to a chain anchor with fixed biners.
![Nat hits the small left crimp near the end of the crux sequence. June 2015.]()
[Hide Photo] Nat hits the small left crimp near the end of the crux sequence. June 2015.
![Starting the crux boulder problem on the 1st try<br>
"Mike Wazowski" (5.13+)]()
[Hide Photo] Starting the crux boulder problem on the 1st try "Mike Wazowski" (5.13+)
![Ed starting the route -<br>
"Mike Wazowski" (5.13+)]()
[Hide Photo] Ed starting the route - "Mike Wazowski" (5.13+)
![Cleaning Mike Wazowski after the send, in nearly dark conditions!]()
[Hide Photo] Cleaning Mike Wazowski after the send, in nearly dark conditions!
![Ed Strang going for the<br>
SEND!-Upper East Fork-<br>
"Mike Wazowski"(5.13+)]()
[Hide Photo] Ed Strang going for the SEND!-Upper East Fork- "Mike Wazowski"(5.13+)
![After the crux. Photo via iphone ha ha.]()
[Hide Photo] After the crux. Photo via iphone ha ha.
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Austin, TX
Austin, TX
It's really a fun, kind of long boulder problem. Sounds like Heath ought to get it done soon, don't know about Peter, I have not talked with him about his efforts. Dec 13, 2010
Fun & flowing 5.12 b/c moves in the low roof lead to a great rest at the ledge. A v8ish compression crux low on the arete takes you to the v6/7 redpoint crux after a clip, and then scramble for the anchors = 5.13c. A proper mix of power and technique will see you through these hard moves.
Props to Josh Smith for the vision, Lee AB for the FA back in the winter, and to all the mothers out there!
Squeezing and slapping the arete makes for just a great route. The face variation on or left of the bolt line looks plausible and painful for the uber-crimper! May 9, 2011
Austin, TX
Cody Roth though snaked the second ascent using the thin crimps to the left of the bolts and did it on his second try, impressive but not unexpected from him, it was sometime in late March since I heard about it before I left for China March 30th.
For the record Cody thought the thin crimps was 5.13d, maybe hard for the grade but not quite 5.14a.
Like I said, way to put the monster to rest. May 10, 2011
Denver, CO
Los Alamos, NM