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Routes in (o) Schoolhouse Rock

Check's in the Mail , The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conjunction Junction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dollars and Sense S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Energy Blues, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Function Junction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
House of Cards S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm Just a Bill S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Interplanet Janet S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
My Hero Zero S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Rufus Xavier Sarsaparilla TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schoolhouse Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taxman Max S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tyrannosaurus Debt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Victim of Gravity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
What's Your Function? S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2008
Page Views: 1,471 total, 17/month
Shared By: Damien on Nov 30, 2010
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Well protected route with bolts often, protecting every more difficult move. Key holds around the crux section are bolted and glued in, giving the climb a weird feel.

Belay position is annoying as the ground level is all loose sand and very steep.

Location

Start at the far right side of Schoolhouse Rock, up the loose sand/rock path. First bolt is 6' off the ground just above a slight lip.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rap rings
James Roe
  5.9
James Roe  
  5.9
Lead this route today, and I have to say the only part that is remotely PG-13 is the silly start. Definitely not worth the weird mantle onto the initial slab section. Just start from the side. Pretty true to 5.9 in my mind, but maybe 5.9- because digging around reveals really solid holds for every section. I do like the variety that the route offers though. Would definitely do again! Dec 18, 2015
Sean Stoops
Henderson, NV
Sean Stoops   Henderson, NV
I agree with Bowens, definitely worth a repeat. It has a pretty cool mix of styles for such a short route at the quarry. I've sport led it a couple times and trad led it once. It makes a really great trad lead for beginners since you can always chicken out and clip bolts. I also don't think it warrants the PG13 rating. Apr 8, 2014
Matthew McMillan
Orange, CA
Matthew McMillan   Orange, CA
This was my 5th lead ever. I only realized the danger of a fall from the crux after I was on it. It's not super dangerous but you'll feel it if you're a noob like me. I loved the ledges that created undulating terrain - nothing like gym climbing. I also loved the variation provided by all the finger, hand, and fist jams. The last ten feet or so are almost all crack climbing, including the steepest section. There is a good place to stand below the rap ring anchors, making this a good route for a noob like me to break into the 5.10 range. (Some guides call this a 5.9) Jan 21, 2014
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
Pretty fun, I wish it kept going straight up instead of merging left at like the 4th? bolt. Nov 19, 2012
B Owens
  5.9
B Owens  
  5.9
I agree that this route is not PG13; it's bolted appropriately. However, I do think this route is definitely worth repeating. It involves slab climbing, short sections of crack climbing (finger and hand), and a little face climbing. For a short sport climb, it's a lot of fun!

Also, it seems like this would make a great gear lead as well; there appear to be tons of great gear placements throughout. Oct 23, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Skip the contrived start (harder than 5.10a) past the 1st bolt and start from the arete to make this no harder than 5.8. So-so climbing along cracks and loose features all cobbled together to make it semi-solid. Not PG-13 and not worth repeating. Jan 8, 2012