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Original Route

5.8 A2+ PG13, Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Mike Baker solo, May 1992
Utah > Southeast Utah > Little Valley > Frankenstein
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Pitch 1- Aid up through sections of rotten rock until the angle lessons and you can free climb. Build a gear anchor on a ledge at the base of the tower. (green alien to #1 seemed to fit.) 5.8, C2 175'

Pitch 2- Climb up from the belay on 5.8 passing a pin to a pin ladder. Belay at a 3 pin anchor on a small stance. 60'

Pitch 3-Climb the rotten crack directly above your belayer passing some suspect fixed gear along the way. Aid out an overhang and finish the pitch on a ledge with a two pin anchor. A2+ 110'

NOTE: Combine pitches 2 and 3 if you don't want to hit your belayer with rocks.

Pitch 4- Climb 5.8 up and right to a crack and then a ledge. Continue to the top at 5.9 passing a pin. Two pin anchor. 40'

Descent- Rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 3. Then down to a two pin anchor on slabs to the climbers right of the pitch 1 belay. Then to the ground.

Location

Start at the obvious crack on the prow below the tower facing the road.

Protection

Triples from Black alien to #1 Camalot, two #2 and #3, one new #4 Camalot. Alien Hybrids, HB Offsets, Tricams, selection of angles.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ben starting pitch 1 with the bride in the background.  There are two bolt studs with nuts at the base for the soloists out there.
[Hide Photo] Ben starting pitch 1 with the bride in the background. There are two bolt studs with nuts at the base for the soloists out there.
This photo shows from pitch 2 up.  Matt is starting pitch 3 in this photo.
[Hide Photo] This photo shows from pitch 2 up. Matt is starting pitch 3 in this photo.