Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Frankenstein

Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Mike Baker solo, May 1992
Page Views: 91 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 29, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1- Aid up through sections of rotten rock until the angle lessons and you can free climb. Build a gear anchor on a ledge at the base of the tower. (green alien to #1 seemed to fit.) 5.8, C2 175'

Pitch 2- Climb up from the belay on 5.8 passing a pin to a pin ladder. Belay at a 3 pin anchor on a small stance. 60'

Pitch 3-Climb the rotten crack directly above your belayer passing some suspect fixed gear along the way. Aid out an overhang and finish the pitch on a ledge with a two pin anchor. A2+ 110'

NOTE: Combine pitches 2 and 3 if you don't want to hit your belayer with rocks.

Pitch 4- Climb 5.8 up and right to a crack and then a ledge. Continue to the top at 5.9 passing a pin. Two pin anchor. 40'

Descent- Rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 3. Then down to a two pin anchor on slabs to the climbers right of the pitch 1 belay. Then to the ground.

Location

Start at the obvious crack on the prow below the tower facing the road.

Protection

Triples from Black alien to #1 Camalot, two #2 and #3, one new #4 Camalot. Alien Hybrids, HB Offsets, Tricams, selection of angles.

Photos

0 Comments