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Routes in The Down Under

Give It a Burl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Yakka S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Koala Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheila Tester T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under Over, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
digit-redo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: DeC&JSt
Page Views: 506 total · 6/month
Shared By: doug cornick on Nov 29, 2010 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

1st 10 ft still a little loose..,but protected by low 1st bolt.

Location

start under small roof.

Protection

anchors with biners. short runout after crux can be protected with medium sized gear.

Photos

Jimbo  
I got on this again today. Something definitely changed since we put it up. It's got nothing to do with .11a Closer to .11d now. Not sure what broke where but it's not the same climb we posted in 2010.

I had no issues with the run out after the crux. Easy climbing and there is a huge side pull that makes the clip casual.

I will admit if I drilled this today a would put the first bolt on the upper head wall a lot lower and add another before the anchor. I'm not sure enough people climb here for me to bother to fix it.

The reason the bolt is out so far right is to give you a bit more room to fall as the ledge slopes down to the right. Apr 13, 2016
The bottom of this is pretty grainy. If it got as much traffic as the upper wall routes do it would be a lot more fun. Very challenging at the grade. Stay left to get the upper headwall bolt clipped and it isn't too hard. Another bolt would be nice. Mar 1, 2015
Queen LaTufa
tucson, az
Queen LaTufa   tucson, az
If you're afraid of heights, there is a REALLY LONG runout to the first bolt above the ledge. I protected with a cam, but someone heavier than myself might not want to trust gear there. And there's a really hard scary way to clip that bolt or the easy not-so-scary way. I tried them both and would highly recommend the easy way. Jan 20, 2013
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.10d
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.10d
I also found the bolting to be a bit odd. I thought there was a bit of a move at the bolt that ends the runout. Admittedly I didn't look for gear options. Jan 31, 2011
jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
May be harder now that Joe broke a hold at the crux. Weird bolt placement at the top. Dec 26, 2010