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5.8, Sport, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 1.2 from 205 votes
FA: unknown
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Land Before Time Wall
Warning Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description

Pocketed face with three bolts to chains. Immediately right of Basilisk.

Protection

3 bolts to chains

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gabriel Using a Foot Jam to Get Past the Crux!
[Hide Photo] Gabriel Using a Foot Jam to Get Past the Crux!
My friend Luke belaying me on the route.
[Hide Photo] My friend Luke belaying me on the route.
Cleaning
[Hide Photo] Cleaning

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Donovan Corcoran
Oxford, OH
[Hide Comment] IIRC its 3 bolts to chains.
Also, I highly doubt its a 5.8-. The face is very pocketed and looks like it should have many good holds, but most the pockets are either too small or slope down inside making them difficult to use. My last trip down, myself and 2 other 5.10 climbers struggled with this one Jun 2, 2014
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] It's been almost 4 years since I was there, so my guess is I either remembered wrong, or a bolt was added. Updated.

I can't speak to the grade, though I'll say that if I thought it was mislabeled when I climbed it, I'd have noted that in the description. There was a piece of notebook paper that listed the routes and grades posted on a stick when the area was being developed: I just listed the grade that was on the paper.

Given how loose the blocks on that end of the wall were when the routes went in, it wouldn't surprise me if some key holds were lost and the grade bumped up in the past 4 years. Jun 6, 2014
Alex Kauer
Ferndale, MI
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Ran into some loose holds up near the top. Belayer took a miniature train size piece to the thigh. Proceed with caution.

Though short and underrated, this route has a little bit of everything. Great warm up route. the start is rather tough for beginners, but the route as a whole poses many challenges. Pinches and small pockets give way to sloped crack that requires a good mantle. Sep 5, 2017
Chelsea Lybarger
Onekama, MI
[Hide Comment] New to lead climbing outdoors and I was super excited to do this route. It was fun and very hard. I spent lot of time at the last bolt trying to figure out how to get over the ledge to the anchors without doing a barrel roll because there just wasn't too much to hold on to. Up this grade maybe. Glad I spent a long time on it though and learned a lot. Jul 9, 2018
Jarrod Patrone
Ithaca, NY
 
[Hide Comment] Harder than you'd think Nov 22, 2019
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] Lily -- I agree about it being a bad first 5.8 lead. Prehistoric Extermination is a much better choice! Aug 12, 2020
[Hide Comment] I think this is a 5.8. if you find the right beta at the start (further right than it seems-- it's more a left diagonal than straight up). If you get left (like I did) start feels like a 5.9. Sep 28, 2021
Evan Gunderson
Darien, IL
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] BĂȘta isn't intuitive but if you do it right the grade isn't sandbagged Mar 15, 2023
Gabriel Lynn
Grand Rapids, MI
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] This route was deceptively difficult to send. I thought the start was mostly okay, but the middle section up to the chains was hard! I thought I was going to fall trying to get past the ledge at the top, just under the chains. I had to use a foot jam in the crack near the top, and just went for it. I was able to get up and over from there. I stayed on my knees as I clipped the chains, lol! Tough climb for sure. Jun 22, 2023