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Routes in The Down Under

Give It a Burl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Yakka S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Koala Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheila Tester T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under Over, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
digit-redo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: EFR, JSt
Page Views: 589 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jimbo on Nov 28, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

We bolted this even though both FAist have led it on gear, as ground fall potentional does exist.
So are you a Sheila or not, now you can choose.

Location

Climbs thin crack seam up the left diedral.

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches including small TCUs, or bolts, chains

Photos

Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
You don't wanna lead this on just bolts. Mar 23, 2011
jbak
  5.10a
jbak  
  5.10a
I guess I passed since I led it first on just my crappy rack, then again on just bolts. The 3rd bolt placement fails the Leona-test I think. 1.5 stars for me. I wouldn't recommend this as a first 5.10 lead regardless of protection method, but if you are solid at the grade it's pretty interesting. Dec 26, 2010
Might be PG-13 if you decide to lead it on gear. Getting to the 2nd bolts is a little spicy if you go sport on it. Make sure your belayer is awake. I am used to climbing with a belayer that is asleep but I did wake him up for this move. Nov 28, 2010