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Free Range

5.12b, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Geir and Marcy
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Lower Devil's E… > Coop
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description

Free Range follows the thin crack system directly under a huge wedged block on the west side of the Coop.

Belay at the base of the formation to the right of the climb. Start by scrambling up 20 feet up 4th class terrain to the base of the route. Clip two bolts to gain the intermittent crack system. Follow this feature placing tricky but solid gear and clipping two more bolts. The anchor is just below the wedged block.

Location

West side of the coop. The climb can be approached two ways:

1) From the east face (where the majority of the climbs on the Coop are located) scramble downhill and to climber's left. You will see a slot between the Coop and its neighboring feature. Enter it, the climb will be in the middle of the face to your right.

or
2) When approaching the Coop from the main trail, take the branch that heads downhill before you reach the Coop. The Trail leads downhill approx 100' and turns to the left. Walk around the formation on this trail, then turn back uphill. You will reach the slot between the Coop and its neighboring feature. Enter it, the climb will be in the center of the face to your right.

Protection

Stoppers, singles to 3". A #3 Tricam is useful for one placement. Make sure you have some small cams (down to black Alien size).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Geir on Free Range
[Hide Photo] Geir on Free Range
free range chickens
[Hide Photo] free range chickens
Photo taken from the bottom of the route
[Hide Photo] Photo taken from the bottom of the route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Marcy -
Tucson/DMR
[Hide Comment] Mega-congrats to Geir on developing and sending Free Range!!! A stellar effort to develop the hardest (to date) mixed route in LDE (You are awesome!). Dec 12, 2010
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
[Hide Comment] Didn't get on it yesterday, Geir, sorry! Was hoping to, but by the time I got in there I was well worked and Hanna didn't really feel like dealing with me projecting this!! Can't wait to give it a whirl, though, and the views from "Touching the Coop" are stellar. Jan 7, 2013