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Concepción

5.13, Trad, 220 ft (67 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 7 votes
FA: FA (Acromaniac) Kyle Copeland FFA Dean Potter
Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Day Canyon > Right Side (sunny) > Right Side Cragging
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Formerly the two pitch aid climb "Acromaniac," Concepcion links the two pitches into what is one of the raddest pitches in the desert.

Location

Up Day Canyon about 15 minutes on the right.

Protection

2 Purple C3
4 green C3
1 red C3
3 .3
3 .4
3 .5
4 .75
2 1
1 2
1 3

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

As of November 2023
[Hide Photo] As of November 2023
The rope is through the first set of anchors in this picture.
[Hide Photo] The rope is through the first set of anchors in this picture.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MTN MIA
Vail
 
[Hide Comment] Well the second pitch is one of the best splitters around. What I am curious about is: since when do we simply rename a route cause it went free????? Can you just imagine the uproar if we renamed all the routes on El Cap or in Zion for example just cause they have now been freed???? IMHO I totally disagree with this tactic, especially out of respect to those who put up the route. May 7, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
[Hide Comment] Yeah, that route sucks.. They should just tear it down. While we're at it, we should incorporate Colorado ethic in all desert climbing area's. It is the best desert-in-rado after all. May 24, 2012
safetyfourth
[Hide Comment] Rados... May 1, 2013
Evan Wisheropp
[Hide Comment] I think renaming a C1 that goes free is fair game. It would be a different story renaming an A4 route. Mar 13, 2019
B Climb
boulder, co
[Hide Comment] Concepcion question: Does anyone know if it is possible to hike up to the Concepcion anchors to set up a top rope? Or if you can climb something easier and then access the Concepcion anchor. Thanks! Dec 8, 2019
Eddie Purcell
A Crag Near You
[Hide Comment] B Climb
No disrespect but top roping this would be a dumb idea.Nor do I think it’s even possible..The top, and bottom anchors are kinda far off to the left of the crack, as the crack trends left. You would never be able to get back on the crack after you fall. You would need some sort of directional to stay in line with the crack. And furthermore you can’t hike up to the top. It’s a slot canyon. Also the top anchors are about 60+ feet below the rim of the canyon. If you’re that hard up to top rope it you might as well just Aid up it on gear and leave a few pieces in for directionals. After all it is a crack. Feb 27, 2021
Rusty Chungus
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] Is it possible to set up a top rope... lmao. top rope the world! Apr 20, 2022
Jerome St-Michel
Montreal, QUÉBEC
[Hide Comment] Definitely not a bad ethic to aid this climb as long as you do it clean. I aided the first section in order to work it. It seemed sketchy to attempt to free it. The only bit of 5.10 climbing is above the mid-anchor, the last 25m or so. Also, it would be relatively easy to set a TR from the mid-anchor if you can aid A0. Note that the mid-anchor is 40m up. Dec 7, 2023