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Routes in Beer Wall

A Pound of Prevention T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beer Wench S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bubbaweiser S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Celebration Ale S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cerveza Verde S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cirrhosis of the Leader S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Daisy Cutter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Delerium Tremors S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doo-Wah Woof T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fred Sandstone Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilded Otter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Micro Brew S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
My Sister Makes Cluster Bombs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Near Beer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spatenweiss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
St. Pauli Girl S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thank God I'm Bubbafied! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Werewolf T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Eric Horst, Rick Thompson, Bob Rentka
Page Views: 444 total · 5/month
Shared By: Befta Efta on Nov 24, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

The initial blast is powerful, but don't let your guard down on the moves above. Fortunately you can fully rest up on the ledge before engaging the small, crescent-shaped corner
(description from Mike William's guidebook)

Location

it is the second bolt line after the air conditioned chimney. Daisy Cutter is left line of bolts.

Protection

5 bolts, bolt anchor

Photos

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Stephen Montgomery
Maryland
 
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
 
Bold moves in near the bottom, a stick clip and attentive spotter is prudent in order to avoid a twisted ankle Jul 24, 2016
BrianWS
  5.11+
BrianWS  
  5.11+
I gave the route a good sweeping the first burn and got it second go. Definitely helped, as did November temps. I remember the start required some long moves between small holds, but it went at my height (5'6).
Not sure you can make a fair comparison between narcissus direct and this route - one has powerful moves between small positive holds while the other is basically a slab.

Regardless, it probably isn't worth a repeat or further effort. Why would anybody want to go back to beer wall in the first place? Although I thought the route was ok, I wouldn't go back just for it alone. Feb 16, 2016
Dylan Randall
Denville, NJ
 
Dylan Randall   Denville, NJ
 
Brian,

The "bomb" rating came from the reachy, poor foot boulder problem at the start, to consistent pulling on cobwebs and holds littered with dirt. Perhaps the climb was slightly out of season when I decided to get on it, i'll give it another shot next time I'm down in the gorge.

As for the start, I had come from the boulder problem of Narcissus Direct and felt that was significantly easier. Perhaps height dependent? (I'm 5'7)

I would definitely walk past this climb if its neighbors to the right in the Beer Walls proper weren't swamped with crowds. Feb 11, 2016
BrianWS
  5.11+
BrianWS  
  5.11+
It's thin, but it goes well below V5... did this one before I climbed other 12s at the New.

The rest of the climbing is alright. Certainly not a classic, but definitely not deserving of a "bomb" rating. May 19, 2015
Dylan Randall
Denville, NJ
 
Dylan Randall   Denville, NJ
 
Boulder problem off the deck felt no easier than V5 IMO....

...11c? May 17, 2015