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It Don't Mean a Thing if it Ain't Got that Swing
5.12b,
Trad, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
FA: (TR) John Bachar, 1978, FL: unknown
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland South
> S Wonderland Ap…
> Fire Me a Burger Rock
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is the obvious center splitter through the overhang. Approach from the right via Solstice, or from the left via Ho Man. Either way, traverse in on a horizontal at the back of the overhang and then crank the bulge on fingers to rattly fingers. Rarely done, easy to access (not waaaay out there like many Wonderland routes).
Location
This is a really obvious splitter through the 5' overhang that looms above everyone walking into the southern Wonderland, on the left as you walk in, about 100' off the desert floor. Almost directly across from the Bankrupt Wall.
Protection
Thin to 2". For the roof itself, emphasize fingers and 1". No fixed anchor on top.