Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 1 from 1
FA: John Barkhausen and Ben Rooney
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rock
> 11-Juniper Canyon
> Rose Tower
Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
A great follow up to Olive Oil if you have the energy.
Pitch1: Climb a short but sweet hand crack through a roof and into a rocky gully. Getting up into the crack can be tricky, considering the roof starts right off the deck. My buddy had to stack two rocks and stand on them to follow me. Belay on chalkstones/boulders
Pitch 2: Directly opposite the finish for the last pitch there's a nice looking flake. Layback/tight jam the crack up through a great pitch. Belay with a couple of cams far back on the ledge you gain.
Descent. Go up from the last belay to a large pine tree. There was a sling with a rap ring on it when we climbed it (10/2010) this deposits you a few hundred feet right of where you started
A few hundred feet right of the gully that leads to the start of Olive Oil. Look through bushes to find the right crack/roof combo (there are many there, look for the one that seems to have the best hand jam potential).
standard rack, heavy on the #.75-#2 camalots