PRINT: Rock Climb Gran Hermano, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Gran Hermano

5.11a/b, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3 from 17 votes
FA: Dave Anderson ?
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > E Gate Buttress

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

This is like a meaner brother of Mexican crack. The climbs are similar as they offer traversing cracks. Gran Hermano, however is thinner, steeper, and more strenuous...excellent climbing.

Location

Start at the 2nd pitch (main one) of the Flakes. Follow the first pitch for 25'. Take the right branching diagonal finger crack to a wide vertical crack. Follow this to the top

Protection

Standard rack of cams from a #0 TCU up to 4" cam

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route 1 is The Flakes<br>
Route 2 is Gran Hermano<br>
Route 3 is El Segundo

Route 1 is The Flakes Route 2 is Gran Hermano Route 3 is El Segundo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tenesmus

One of the few easy .11's around here and just as worthy as Tick Fever. However, this is a more straight forward finger crack than Tick Fever and without the huge rests. Its also more physical than El Segundo. Nov 29, 2010

James Garrett
Salt Lake City, UT

I am so sorry, but you asked. The late great Dave Anderson was an incomparable crack master in the Wasatch during the 80's-90's (died in a Air Medical Rescue Helicopter crash after being injured in a Pink Pine avalanche). He never reported his routes (hence the "Name withheld by request of FA party" throughout the Desert Rock series) and probably climbed in the East Gate area more than anyone except our local "blond god" Drew Bedford. He used to do laps in the Flakes area and frequently climbed all the variations on all sides of a given chunk of rock. He was definitely in a league ahead of me, rarely drilled bolts on his own, and he wouldn't even name things unless I or others suggested. He will be forever missed. At any rate, he climbed those routes free and clean, but thought them so short and insignificant and most likely climbed by Wheels or Bedford, he didn't even think to report them...and back then, many things went unreported. Nov 30, 2010

tenesmus

Awesome story James. I think that's one of the cool parts about mentioning routes like this. Take my name off for sure. The cleaning and grooming we did will only (hopefully) get others psyched about these classic lines. Who cares who did it first. What should it be named then?

One of the few finger cracks in the wasatch and one of a handful of easy .11 trad leads around here. Nov 30, 2010

drewford
Wasatch Back, UT

It's easy to say that back in the day these would have been climbed as variations. But I think it's good to record them, give 'em a name and a grade. Proud cracks are in short supply. Good additions to the East Gate.

P.S. James, I hope you're doing well amigo! Jan 14, 2011

Past User

5.11b

This climbed and protected really well for being such scale-y rock...I liked it better than el Segundo...not sure it will really ever clean up...pity. Aug 24, 2016

Alex Zucca
Salt Lake City, UT

Everything in the crack is clean. If you use low smeary feet it is a little ricey. Keep that left foot in the crack and smear your right foot. Jul 14, 2019