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Routes in Farside

Angels Way S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Childs Play T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devil's Slide T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, TR, 89 ft
FA: John and Ian Gregory
Page Views: 93 total · 1/month
Shared By: ClimbFit on Nov 20, 2010
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Description [Edit]

This is an amazing route; it goes right the widest crack/chimney on the face. It is a very challenging and difficult route but one of the most fun routes I have ever climbed. You will use just about every climbing move that you know. There are actually 3 crux on this route. The cruxes are at the overhangs. The "crux" is at the giant block/chockstone in the middle. The only thing that I disliked about the route was that it was extremely dirty, a few times I had dirt fly into my eyes. The dirt in the crack really can't be cleaned out though.

Some people have expressed their dislike of this being a bolted route. John Gregory had it bolted because there is not many places in the chimney for bomber placement. Further more. John says that you will need 5 or more six 4 and bigger cams to trad climb it. It is hard to find one cam that size in the UAE let alone 5.

Location [Edit]

This route follows the widest line up the face. It is route number 4 on the topo.

Protection [Edit]

This route is a sport route with brand new bolts and hangers. There are abseil anchors bolted at the top. You can also climb this route on TR.

It is a tight chimney so I advise taking off any unnecessary gear of your harness. I also do not recommend trying to trad climb this route.

Photos

massimo
Manerbio
massimo   Manerbio
It is great pitch! almost a lot different style of climbing in 30 meters !!! Dec 22, 2010
Ren
  5.10b PG13
Ren  
  5.10b PG13
This route was like a game. You had to use a lot of strategy and every move was different. I hardly used the same moves more than twice. Jan 2, 2011

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