PRINT: Rock Climb Hall of Mirrors, Red Rocks

Hall of Mirrors

5.10c PG13, Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Ryan Prentiss and Chris Hagen 2010
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > First Creek Canyon > Romper Room

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

This is a relatively brittle route that, with a few more ascents, could become an amazing route in the First Creek area. It is a great combination of face climbing, overhanging jugs, and a crack that requires all of your creativity to complete. It begins on "Doobie Dance" on the Romper Room wall.
P1: After climbing up Doobie dance, continue up the left leaning crack through 2 roofs (brittle) to a small nook and belay from there, .75-2 for the anchor 5.9 150 ft.
P2:Continue up the crack to a bush. 5.8 140 ft
P3:The money pitch! Continue up the crack using fingers, hands, fists and anything you can to make your way up the crack. The crux is a thin crack to a fist jam 3/4 through where the feet disappear on a polished face, and the gear becomes thin. Protect with a #6 or #7 stopper or small cams. Make your way through the jam to a slight off width, protected with #4 or #5 Camalot. Continue through the disappearing crack to some thin face climbing. Watch out for the "cactus crux" at the end. Belay from a ledge. 5.10c 180 ft
P4: Continue up and to the left to a crack and a ledge at the top of the route. 5.9 60 ft

Note: It is also possible to continue up and right after the cactus crux pitch, however daylight motivated us to do a shorter last pitch.

Location

This route is a left leaning crack that extends above "doobie dance" on the Romper Room wall.
Descent: Make your way left scrambling, over ledges, possible rappel to the Lotta Balls descent.

Protection

Traditional. double rack to #3 camalot, single #4, optional #5.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The final corner we did to end the route. .2-.5 camalots get you home.

Ryan Belaying from the the bush on top of pitch 2.

Moving through the crux pitch

From Lotta balls wall. Route goes up the left leaning crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA

I think that this route was previously done by the former BLM park ranger, Jed Botsford. I wanna say they put up a route on that same crack also calling it .10+.

I would also say that this route would probably be better listed in the first creek slabs area as opposed to romper room. I think of romper room as a sort of separate wall. I believe this route is closer to the climb now listed as sunset slab. Nov 22, 2010

Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV

Karsten-- this route is to the left of Jed's line, although both routes seem to have that "angling crack on left side of buttress" feature. Jed's line started by Rising Moons and went up left of Sunset Slab. If I recall properly, it was called either "The Temp Files" or "All Chalkless Revue". Nov 22, 2010

Cunning Linguist

This route IS on the Romper Room Wall, and looks great. It is the obvious extension to Doobie Dance, which is ten feet LEFT of Romper Room 5.7. Apr 24, 2012

Rprops
Nevada

5.10c

This needs to be on every locals to-do list!

Continuous crack, so any scary bits can be protected.
.5 cams take care of the thoughtful-yet-easy 2nd pitch
If you're uncomfortable with OW keep a 4 or 5 for the 2nd half of the crux. Its easier climbing without the cam in your way but you could french free the horizontal wideness.
The Cactus Crux is real! I had no gear left, went high. My follower placed cams in front of them and went low.
Crux pitch is probably over 200' tree to tree.
After pulling the stellar 20' corner on the left, we bushwacked from big tree to tree over the hill, eventually finding the cairn and rap station (down and right). 3 raps to the ground via the 1st creek slabs descent.
The crux pitch is some of the best climbing I've done.

I broke zero holds all day, my follower cannot say the same. Dec 30, 2017

Ryan Strong
Rochester, NY

5.10+

I broke up the crux pitch into two pitches. There's a nice stance almost halfway through that makes for a nice belay. I was glad to have the extra pieces! There's also a lot of choss on route so tread lightly. Apr 16, 2023