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Routes in A. Mr. Jimmy

Big Wall Greg's Chicken Shack S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimichonga S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Mess with the Bull S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lucky Bastard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luscious Babes S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Off Web T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piss Ant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Screamery T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spiders From Mars S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stinger Direct S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venom S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Voice, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Which Side Are You On? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Barbara Knowles, Lisa Verkler, 1990
Page Views: 5,001 total · 51/month
Shared By: HTeale on Nov 18, 2010
Admins: Chris treggE, Dave Hug

You & This Route

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Still in the main hallway, it's the long clean slab down the slope and left of Screamery. Fun route.


6 QD's + anchor


Sketchy first clip if I recall correctly. At my last visit to Jackson....

Trip leader to new climber girl: Hey, do you want to lead this?

New climber girl: Ummm, I've never led before.

Trip leader: That's ok, we will teach you as you go!

Me, to myself: Oh fuck, here we go.

10 minutes later the girl sketches off the first clip and decks. Thought I was going to have to drag some nube with a broken leg out of the falls that day but thankfully she just got banged up. Stay away from the college groups! Nov 28, 2010
The first clip (unless it's a new bolt since Trad Nanny's climb) is within reach from the ground if you're taller than 5' 10''. The base of the route is on a very slanted section of rock, so stepping up on the higher part lets you easily reach the first bolt, though you'll start/belay from a lower part of the base.

First climb I led in Jackson, heard a lot of people say it was something that many people brought new folk to for their first taste of Jackson. Tall slab with some wavy formations in the rock; all about leaning in and trusting feet.

Also, if you're leading in the afternoon part of the route is shaded, and the top half or so is exposed to sun and it can get fairly hot to the touch. Just above the anchors the cliff meets the treeline above the route so you could climb it and walk out into the forest above the cliffs. There's a somewhat interesting view if you turn around and look back. Sep 16, 2013
Kate Mittendorf
Nashville, TN
Kate Mittendorf   Nashville, TN
The first clip is sketchy if you do the direct start. I think this is the only 5.8 move on the route. If you have a new leader, or are feeling a bit lazy, starting up and right makes for a 5.6 move and much less sketchy ground to the first clip. If you start up here, I rate the route 5.6 or 5.7. It's definitely a good taste of bullet hard Jackson sandstone and is a classic. Sep 27, 2013
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Even the left start felt easier than 5.8, maybe it was a low-gravity day. Jan 3, 2016
Nickolas C. Mueller
Milwaukee, WI
Nickolas C. Mueller   Milwaukee, WI
The guidebook says there are 6 bolts but we counted 7. Oct 1, 2016

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