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Routes in Blueberry Ledge

BLC T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blueberry Tafone T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Madame Blueberry T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Nov 2010
Page Views: 41 total · 0/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 18, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Tafoni are rock pockets caused by differential weathering, usually involving salt water locales, but in the case of Crane Mtn. probably caused by differential mineral erosion due to micro-regions of high humidity and salt precipitate from the rock itself.
The crux lies at the steep headwall; getting up onto this and making the next few steps. A very large tafone is used for this step, hence the name.
The route makes full use of the Blueberry Ledge's length, however, it's mostly low-angle climbing; fun but not particularly challenging.
Climb the initial slab, following a crack up and right for 10' to its intersection with a crack running up left. Follow this one up to its top on a boulder beneath an overhanging, right-slanting corner/wall facing right. Step up onto the wall, move up and slightly left to an upward-pointing flake and traverse along this left 7' to a wide crack in low-angle rock. Follow this until it runs into dirt, then climb easy rock up and leftward to the high pt. of the Ledge.

Location

Blueberry Tafone begins at the lowest pt. of Blueberry Ledge, near its right end, at a right-slanting crack at the foot of a slab.
Descent: Walk climber's left along the ledge to a rappel anchor on a large conifer, or continue left and scramble down a steep path through a tight screen of conifers.

Protection

Standard Modern Trad Rack.

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