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Routes in Lost Peak

South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 140 ft, Grade II
FA: D. Boyer, R. Ingraham, 1958 (?)
Page Views: 80 total · 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Nov 16, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The South Face route up Lost peak takes a line of least resistance directly to the summit from the saddle between Lost Peak and the Wedge. The wall is steep enough to keep your attention, and even if the climbing isn't technical, avoiding loose rock and hidden cactus will keep you on your toes.

The route takes a low-angled ramp system up to about half-way up the face, above which is a right-facing corner. Stick to the corner, or stray out onto the face to the right.

Location

The route starts about 50 ft below the saddle between the Wedge and Lost peak, on the West side. Descend by rappelling the route, or rappelling off the north side of the peak into the gully that leads to Third Peak.

Protection

Light rack consisting of a set of wires and a handful of runners should be enough for experienced climbers. For those who take 5.6 climbing more seriously, some cams up to hand-sized could come in useful as well.

Photos

Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
 
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
 
We have rappelled off the south side with a single 60m rope. This was not enough to get us to the ground, but the ramp on the south side is easy enough scramble down to make this a viable rappel option. Sep 18, 2016