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Routes in Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress

Arms Control T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Between Coming and Going T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Diddler , The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Ruth's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grafenburg Crack, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Growing Hole, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Idiotsyncracies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Recondite T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Technarete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titan's Dice S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Doug Reed, 1991
Page Views: 1,237 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 14, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

This is an amazing climb! Burly is the best way to sum it up. Although it is a sport route, its a nice blend of trad and sport skills. Start by climbing up into a pod/offwidth and dogleg left into the overhang. Throw in kneebar after kneebar as you inch out left toward the 4th bolt. Turn the lip and head into the dihedral. Face climb and stem your way through the dihedral to reach the roof. From here work your way left to pull the overhang for the best rest on the climb. From here, it's still not over, continue up through a crack system and a dyno to reach the shuts. Be careful through bolt 4. A tight belay is necessary to keep you from hitting the ground. It is recommended to have the belayer tie in for the lower section and then unclip once the climber reaches the dihedral. This thing is a wrestling match!

Location

Start in the center of a large overhanging section of rock about 25 yds to the right of The Growing Hole, 5.12a.

Protection

9 bolts, shuts.

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