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Routes in North Face

Alice in Wonderland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
All The Kings Horses S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chuck If You Want S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Consolation Prize S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Final Decade, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hanging in the Balance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hustler's Roof S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Decade, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Poser's Lonely Reunion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rooster Booster S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Erik, Jen & Kalle Viira, 11/2005 (from guide book)
Page Views: 251 total, 3/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Nov 13, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Though unnamed, this route is too good not to include. Just left of the obvious cave (and the route Chuck If You Want), this climbs the less-than-vertical nice, white stone.

Another great route on The Egg that climbs great from bottom to top, it has 3 separate and roughly equal in difficulty cruxes. Technical and uber-fun, this is one of the best on the North Face.

Location

Find the North Face of The Egg. Starts about 5m left of the big obvious cave. Its not the route that hugs the left side of the cave, through the overhang -- that's Chuck If You Want (also great). This is the next route left.

Protection

Bolts a two bolt anchor.

Photos

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mattjohnson
Laurens, SC
  5.11a
mattjohnson   Laurens, SC
  5.11a
This route is (aptly) named "Hanging in the Balance" according to the Yangshuo Rock Climbs guidebook. It is high quality and very sustained from the middle to the last bolt. Having a long wingspan is definitely benificial. May 25, 2014