Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Unknown Finger Crack

5.11, Trad, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 6 votes
FA: ????
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Escalante Canyon > Cabin Wall
Access Issue: CABIN WALL IS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY Details
Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

I have no idea what this climb is called, but if you know the name of it, let me know. Work your way up the dihedral with some feet to a stance below a steep section of crack looming above you. Fire out some burly moves in the overhanging tips crack to a jug. There are new shiny bolts up top.

Note that the bottom of this route is a little loose. I have climbed this route a few times and one time a ledge for a foothold near the bottom broke. Another time we trundled a huge block off of the top of the route that was marked with chalk Xs. Anyways it would probably be a good idea for the belayer to have a helmet. This route is short but very powerful. Definitely a finger-size dependent crack.

Location

This route is the route to the left of four wheel drive by about 150 feet. It is a very obvious route as you are walking along, because the bolts are easy to see.

Protection

BD #0.75s for the bottom, maybe three of them and possibly one #1. For the upper section I used a #0.2 or small purple Mastercam-sized piece and then three #0.3 BD-sized cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lower on the route.
[Hide Photo] Lower on the route.
Terry sticking it.
[Hide Photo] Terry sticking it.